Sightseeing in Israel » Tour Israel

From the charm of Zichron Yaakov to the galleries of Ein Hod

Ethan Bensinger — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:15:14 +0000

A visit to the charming village of Zichron Yaakov, with its pedestrian-only cobblestone main street lit by old fashioned street lamps, and bounded on both sides with beautifully restored homes, courtyards, galleries, boutiques, and places of historical interest, will provide the visitor with a true understanding of Edmund de Rothschild’s vision and contribution to the Jewish re-settlement of The land of Israel at the end of the 19th century. No doubt your visit to Zichron Yaakov can be one of the highlights of your Israel trip.

Several hours should be dedicated to your visit to Zichron Yaakov, especially if you plan to visit the First Aliyah Museum, tour the Aaransohn house, the Carmel Mizrahi or Tishbi winery and perhaps have lunch on the main street. As travel in Israel is relatively easy, the village can be reached within 45 minutes from Tel-Aviv or within 15 minutes from Haifa. Use Route 4 to enter Zichron Yaakov from the southwest and drive up the hill to Hakovshim St., and then turn left toward the circle, where you will again turn left in the direction of the arched entrance to Hameyasdim Street. You may find parking in front of the cemetery near the Founders’ Monument. The latter is a natural start to your walking tour and provides a brief historical sketch in ceramic relief. Here you can also pick up a map of the village as well as a list of restaurants and B&Bs. Then cross the street and enter the cemetery.

The challenges that had faced Zichron Yaakov’s first settlers will quickly become evident as you walk through the cemetery noting the large number of children’s graves entombed above ground. The village was originally settled in 1882 by Zionist pioneers, predominantly from Romania, many of whose children perished from malaria or the hardships of the winter of 1883. Though some dispirited families chose to leave immediately thereafter, Edmund de Rothschild came to the rescue of the nascent community by providing agricultural employment and subsidized housing for his workers. The relationship between Rothschild’s administrators and these pioneers at times became acrimonious, in that the deeds to their homes had to be registered in the names of the administrators in return for Rothschild’s financial assistance. However, soon thereafter vineyards were planted and by the early 1890s a winery had become successful, providing the moshava with its financial footing.

As you pass under the arch, note at number 18 the modest home of Asher Bonstein, a founding settler/farmer of Zichron Yaakov, and the collection of agricultural implements in the side yard of the homes at numbers 22 and 24.The Hershkovitch home is located further up Hameyasdim St. at number 30. Moshe Hershovitch, one of the original pioneers, was a master carpenter whose wood carvings survive in the synagogue as well as in the home of Aaron Aaronsohn. In his yard you will also find some of the mulberry bushes that were originally planted in 1900 to feed a population of silkworms. Silk manufacturing was yet another venture of the industrious Baron de Rothschild, yet short lived. Across the street from the Hershkovitz home at number 19 is the former home of the “foot pilgrim”. Chaim Bar Schwartz, one of the founders of Zichron Yaakov, was known to have fulfilled one of the biblical commandments, make pilgrimage to the Kotel or Western Wall of the Temple.

One of the most notable buildings on Hameyasdim Street, with its stone, castle-like exterior and beautiful garden, is the Aaronsohn family home. As members of one of Zichron’s founding families, the wealthy senior Aaronsohns left Romania with their furniture, crystal and china, which is still on display at the home, as if the family had just sat down to a formal meal. The exploits of two of their children, Aaron Aaronsohn and his sister Sara have become legend in Israel. Aaron was a world-renowned botanist whose research at nearby Atlit led to his discovery of specimens of wild wheat known as “the Mother of wheat”. You may tour the home and the museum which contains an explanation of his scientific research, as well as many excellent documents, photographs and an audiovisual presentation relating to the role that Aaron, Sara and others played in the establishment of the espionage group NILI. Note: It is sometimes difficult to gain entrance expeditiously because of the many school children visiting the place.(06-6390120) A visit to the museum certainly merits a stop during your tour in Israel.

Members of this group used NILI, an acronym for a biblical verse from the Book of Samuel, as a password. Their purpose was to help facilitate a British victory in World War I in Ottoman controlled Palestine by gathering intelligence on Turkish military installations and troop movements. The group used carrier pigeons to relay information to the British, but to the ring’s great detriment, one such pigeon decided to land at the home of the Turkish governor in Caesarea as it made its way from Atlit to British headquarters in Cairo Egypt. With the exposure of the espionage ring, Turkish authorities surrounded Zichron Yaakov and arrested members of the NILI group, including Sara Aaronsohn. Sara was brutally tortured by the Turks, but refused to divulge any information regarding the group. Asking to be returned to her home one last time to change her clothes, she went to the bathroom and shot herself, rather than giving the Turkish authorities the satisfaction of hanging her. The pistol’s hiding place (known as a “slick”), and the bathroom can be visited on the tour of the home. Aaron, whose accomplishments also included the preparation of a detailed map of Palestine for use at the Versailles Peace Conference, mysteriously perished in an airplane accident over the English Channel in 1919.

The remains of Avshalom Feinberg, another resident of Zichron Yaakov, and member of NILI, were discovered in the Sinai desert after the Six Day War. Beduins had murdered Avshalom during his attempt to reach Aaron Aaronsohn and the British in Cairo. At the time of his death he must have had a date in his pocket as a large date tree sprouted with his remains entwined in it’s roots. Bedouin tradition held that this tree was the resting place of the Jew. After the war, Avshalom Feinberg was returned to Israel and given a formal state funeral.

Across the street from the Aaronsohn home you will note the restaurant/bar of the Tishbi family, with it’s comfortable outdoors seating area. The elegant stone house was originally the home of Shmuel Sternberg who designed the Carmel winery’s first iron gates. It was in the cellar of the Sternberg home that Shmuel’s son David hid Sara Aaronsohns’s final letter and will from the Turks.

As you meander through the many shops and galleries make a point to stop at the water reservoir, known as Brechat Binyamin. At first glance you may think that the façade is that of an ancient synagogue, but the true purpose at the time of its construction in 1891 was to provide continuous flowing water to a central point in the village. The design of this otherwise utilitarian structure again reflects the careful planning undertaken by Rothschild’s administrators. Your next stop will be the synagogue at the corner of Hameyasdim and Hanadiv streets.

The village was originally known as Zammarin, but to honor his father James, Edmund de Rothschild had the name of the village changed to “ In Memory of Jacob.” His Father’s name is further enshrined in the name of the town’s synagogue, Ohel Yaakov, which was built in 1886. The size and architectural quality of the Synagogue, with its elegant crystal chandeliers and richly carved furnishings, reflect Rothschild’s vision for the growth of the community and his main commercial enterprise, the winery.

Immediately past the synagogue and opposite Rothschild Park stands the First Aliyah Museum (04-629-4777). The subject matter of this museum is unique, in that it focuses on the Aliyah from 1882 to 1904, rather than on the more frequently discussed subsequent waves of immigration to the Land of Israel. Spread over three floors of a building constructed in 1892, the museum presents a moving multi-media presentation of the travails of one family’s journey from the Diaspora to Palestine. Tracing the movement of a family unit is especially poignant, in that this Aliyah was comprised primarily of entire families escaping the pogroms of the East or those otherwise inspired by the opportunity to work the land. The video is supplemented by large photographs, sculptures depicting the First Aliyah’s pioneers and metal relief maps of sister villages of Zichron Yaakov built with the assistance of Edmund de Rothchild. The museum is also a repository for one of the first movies filmed in Israel depicting life in Tel Aviv in 1913.

As you exit the museum, turn right into Hanadiv Street and proceed down the hill to the visitor’s center of the Carmel Mizrahi winery for a tour. If you previously visited the winery founded by Rothschild in Rishon Le Zion, you may instead wish to tour the smaller winery at the nearby Tishbi Estate (04- 638- 0435.) The Tishbi family was commissioned by Rothschild in 1882 to plant a vineyard near to Zichron Yaakov and they continue to be in business to this day. You may even find proprietors Johnathan and Nili Tishbi busily at work on the property.

Their visitors’ center offers tours of the winery, a Kosher dairy restaurant, a wine and cheese shop, wine and chocolate tasting, as well as the ability to bring your own container from home for a fill up. The winery is unique in that much of its state-of the-art equipment is located outside for easy viewing. An exception of course is the oak barrel wine aging facility and the cognac plant, which utilizes a magnificent antique Remy Martin processor. The winery affords pleasant outdoor seating under a trellis and vines or at long wooden tables inside their modern/rustic style restaurant. The state of the art wine shop has an impressive collection of the large varieties of Tishbi wines, from their less expensive table wines to their estate collection. To reach the estate, follow the signs on Aahron Street, South of the Founders’ Monument, directing you toward Binyamina.

Return to Route 4 for the short drive in the direction of Haifa to the village of Ein Hod, which for art lovers is a must-see stop during their travel in Israel. Turn right at the Ein Hod/ Ein Hud sign that directs you up a winding road through the scenic foothills of the Carmel Mountains. The village was founded in 1953 by Marcel Janko at the site of abandoned Arab homes in what was then known as Ein Hud. Because of its proximity to the main road connecting Tel-Aviv and Haifa, the villagers of Ein Hud were evacuated to higher ground during Israel’s War of Independence. Today, most of these former Arab residences have been reconstructed and enlarged, becoming home to a thriving artist colony. Try to avoid the crush of the weekend crowds to more fully enjoy meandering through the alleys, courtyards and in and out of artists’ studios.

At the main square, across from the Dona Rosa Argentine restaurant, you will find a communal gallery displaying a sampling of the works of most of Ein Hod’s artists. Opposite is the Janko Dada Museum (04-984-2350), whose permanent display is dedicated to the seventy years of the artist’s world-renowned creations. Those of you with an adventurous artistic streak can try your hand at creating your own Dada masterpieces in the Dadlab interactive exhibition.

If you care to enjoy more traditional, hands on artistic experiences, Ein Hod offers the visitor a number of interesting venues. Pottery making, including wheel techniques, glazing and kiln firing, can be studied with Naomi Verchovsky (04 984-1107). A demonstration of linoleum cutting, lithography and etching can be observed at the studio of Ora Lahau-Shaatiel (04 -984-2018). The studio of Helena Markson (04-984-1171) can offer you a glimpse into the world of printmaking techniques and etching on copper and zinc.

After attending a workshop or just wandering through Ein Hod’s galleries, a brief stop for some homemade beer at the Art-Bar might be just what you may need on a hot summer day. There you will meet it’s colorful proprietor Danny Shlyfestone, who with his wife Analia, runs the mini brewery/art gallery. Danny serves a variety of stouts and ales, Yemenite style pizza is made on an outdoor Taboon on Fridays, and on Tuesday evenings it’s jazz from 6 p.m. onwards. If you stay long enough you’ll learn everything you ever wanted to know about the intricacies of beer making and the history of beer, with a few of Danny’s jokes thrown in between. Before you leave Ein Hod, ask Danny to point you in the direction of the Nisco Museum of Mechanical Music.

Nisan Cohen will greet you at the door of his museum which is jam packed with his collection of music boxes, hurdy gurdies, an automatic organ, a reproducing player piano, and much more. No doubt, one of the more unusual attractions in Israel! Cohen, a native of New York, spent a lifetime as a documentary filmmaker while collecting music boxes and accumulating a vast archive of Yiddish records. One of his most prized possessions is the 1918 rendition of Hatikva on the Edison label, which he will play for you on an original RCA windup gramophone. Also, if you are visiting Ein Hod on a Friday, you can attend the 1 p.m. concert presented at the Nisco Museum using Cohen’s original mechanical instruments. However, you may wish to call first as the concert is dependent on the number of guests attending.(052-4755-313).

At the conclusion of your visit you can return down the hill to Route 4. Turn right, and at the sign, left towards Atlit where you can rejoin Route 2 toward Tel-Aviv.

There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources:

First Aliyah Museum;

The Aaronsohn House;

Municipality of Zichron Yaakov;

Gidonim Society For The Promotion Of Tourism

Tags: Aaronsohn Family, Ein Hod art galleries, Israeli History, Tour Israel, Vacation in Israel, Zichron Yaakov Synagogue

Life with Neanderthal Man and Napoleon too at the Mt. Carmel caves and the beach at Tel Dor

Ethan Bensinger — Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:24:26 +0000

Along the coast of Israel, a mere 15 minutes south of Haifa and 45 minutes north of Tel-Aviv, the caves of Nachal Me’arot, and the tel at Dor beach, provide the visitor with a time capsule of human existence from prehistoric, to ancient and modern times. From Tel-Aviv follow Route 2 and exit at Route 70, toward Zichron Yaakov. At the Route 4 junction turn left and proceed about 13 kilometers to the entrance of the national park, which is truly one of the oldest attractions in Israel.

The rocky cliffs of Mt. Carmel reveal a series of caves whose prehistoric inhabitants can be traced back about 500,000 years. Perhaps the most unique feature of these caves is that Neanderthals lived side by side with a population of modern looking human beings some 100,000 years ago. Their dwellings were in the area of what today is called the Nachal Me’arot Nature Reserve, a national park that includes a wadi with walking trails and a series of caves.

Visitors who are able to climb the steep steps can explore three main caves, the first being the Tabun or Tanur cave. Here, layers of sea sand and microscopic evidence of pollen suggest to researchers that during the Paleolithic age the coast was much closer and was covered with savannah vegetation. The early cultures that used the cave are clearly identified by signage permitting the visitor to understand the sequential evolution of man living for thousand of years at this site. In fact, the earliest prehistoric inhabitants of the cave were apparently homoerectus and used a hand axe of flint or limestone for skinning and deboning animals such as rhinoceros and hippopotamus. One of the most important finds in the Tabun cave has been the Neanderthal skeletal remains of a female dating back some 120,000 years.

Interestingly, at the nearby Skhul cave, an additional 14 skeletons were excavated, similar to human beings in physical appearance, leading researchers to hypothesize that Homo Sapiens did not evolve from the Neanderthals, but that both lived together contemporaneously in the Mt. Carmel area.

Further down the trail, you will come upon the Nahal, or El –Wad, cave where one of the most important finds has been evidence of the Natufian culture. This 10,000-year-old settlement is thought to have been permanent, with groups of families living in a village type encampment utilizing the cave perhaps for storage and the terrace in front of it for their tents. The most notable feature of this culture would have been the transition from hunter/gatherers to plant growing and animal domestication, and the evolution of crude stone tools to delicate microliths. On the terrace, archaeologists uncovered more than 100 burials with individuals lying in a tightly flexed position, a replica of which is available for viewing. Along side are several round niches carved in the stone, which may have served a cultic purpose.

Visitors wishing to continue their visit at Nachal Me’arot, can follow the footsteps of prehistoric man by choosing one of several walking options, as set forth in the Israel travel guide provided at the ticket window. The circular blue route through the wadi and up the ridge will take you about two hours. On route you can observe hyraxes sunning themselves, or you can just enjoy the cliff flora, some of which are unique to Nachal Me’arot. A wooded area near the ranger station/gift shop has a picnic area, and occasionally inhabitants from the nearby Druze villages will sell pita, olives and sweets near the parking lot.

As an alternative to a hike through the wadi, you may consider a walk on the nearby immaculate white sand beach at Dor. Follow Route 4 south towards Tel- Aviv, and just before reaching Zichron Yaakov and the Arab village of Fureidis, turn right at the sign leading you to Kibbutz Nachsholim and Dor. Your car can be parked within the gates of the kibbutz hotel, near the excellent museum, which exhibits many of the finds from the tel and its adjacent natural harbor.

Archaeologists from the Hebrew University have excavated Tel Dor since 1980, and its remains on the shores of the Mediterranean attest to the site having been a flourishing port city throughout the millennia. In fact, the earliest remains at the tel date back to the Canaanite period ending about 1200 BCE. Later, the Shkil tribe of sea raiders inhabited Dor, as described in the letters of the Egyptian traveler Wen-Amon.The Phoenicians settled at Dor approximately 1100 BCE, and subsequently it became King Solomon’s main port on the Mediterranean.

Walking among the remains overlooking the sea, it becomes evident that the Greco-Roman civilizations were also dominant at Dor. Archaeologists have excavated Roman temples and mosaic floors, as well as stone-walled houses from the Hellenistic period, when the site was known as Dora. Artifacts of beautiful Roman and Greek bowls, plates, jugs and jewelry are displayed at the nearby museum. From the 4th to the 7th century CE, Dor served as a Bishopric, but the Byzantine church was later abandoned. During the Arab period, the village of Tantura was established. Israeli forces captured this village during the War of Independence in 1948, with some of its residents moving to the nearby village of Fureidis, on Route 4.

After visiting the tel you can get a feel for “living at the sea” at modern Dor by exploring the seaside hotel, Kibbutz Nachsholim or nearby Moshav Dor. However, you will no doubt be drawn to the imposing structure on the grounds of the kibbutz, which today houses the museum. The building was initially constructed in 1891 by Baron Edmund de Rothschild as glass bottle factory for his winery at nearby Zichron Yaakov. Interestingly, the manager of the factory was none other than Meir Dizengoff, who later served as Tel-Aviv’s first mayor. Unfortunately, the local sand was unsuitable for glass production, and the workers suffered from malaria, thus resulting in Rothschild’s venture becoming unprofitable. Before the factory closed its doors in 1895, sand was imported from Europe to make some outstanding colored glassware that is on display in the museum.

The structure stood vacant for the next 80 years, until members of the Kibbutz rehabilitated it, turning it into a repository for the finds from Tel Dor and its harbor. Today, a large assortment of anchors, navigational tools, earthen storage jars, Greek and Roman pottery, jewelry and ancient figurines are beautifully displayed throughout the museum. Most impressive is the military equipment from Napoleon’s retreating army from nearby Acco, which was found in the harbor at Dor. Unfortunately, most tours in Israel don’t make a stop at this most interesting museum.

Two large artillery pieces, one captured by Napoleon from the Turks (look for the Ottoman moon crescent and star), and the other from the Spanish army are on display, together with muskets, swords and ammunition. This ordinance was discarded at Napoleon’s orders in the Tantura harbor on the night of May 21st 1799 to make room for wounded soldiers who were to be transported back by horse and stretcher to the French base in Egypt. You may wish to call the museum (04-6390950) to confirm their visiting hours. For those of you interested in archaeology or history, this is a must-see stop on today’s Israel tour.

The seaside area around Dor, which today includes the town of Zichron Yaakov, was developed in the early 20th century through the vision and generosity of Baron de Rothschild. Though the winery, and the renovated main street of Zichron require a separate visit, one can also appreciate Rothschild’s impact on the area with a visit to the nearby village of Bat Shlomo for lunch at the Schwartzmans.

Returning to Route 4, turn right toward Zichron Yakov, and then left on Route 70, exiting at old Bat Shlomo to the right. The seven stone houses on the picturesque street were commissioned by Rothschild in 1899 as homes for his farmers and workers at the nearby winery. The fourth house on the right is the home of Ziv Schwartzman, a third generation cheese maker and olive grower. Travel to Israel would just not be the same without a stop at the Schwartzmans to enjoy a large variety of cheeses by either sitting in the comfortable canopied garden or inside among the family photographs, historical documents, antique furniture, tools and utensils. Check out the 200 year old Samovar and the Primus stove while Ziv weaves his tales of his grandfather’s and father’s life on the moshav. Also, if you look up at the ceiling, note the 100 year old red clay roof tiles imported by Rothschild from Marseilles, which still keep the water out and the warmth in, at the charming and rustic Schwartzman home.