Today’s off the beaten track adventure will take us slightly inland, away from the coast, into Emek Hefer. This valley of kibbutzim and moshavim, just to the east and north of Netanya, will give us the opportunity to stroll through eucalyptus groves on the banks of the Alexander River while watching large turtles sun themselves on the rocks nearby, and have lunch at a boutique wine shop/ restaurant at an adjacent kibbutz. However, we’ll start our day at Israel’s largest collection of orchids located at Utopia Park and end it over a cup of coffee or glass of wine at a cliffside Bauhaus restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean.

From Tel-Aviv travel north on Route 2 to the Netanya junction, Route 57. Travel east on Route 57 for about 15 kilometers, following the directional sign to Kfar Yona. As you reach the Nitzane Oz junction turn left and follow the signs to Kibbutz Bahan.The trip from Tel-Aviv may take you 45 to 60 minutes. Their parking lot is spacious and Utopia Park is accessible to the physically challenged. During the summer months the park is open from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., but closes at 5 p.m. during the winter. On Fridays the park closes at 3 p.m. Noteworthy is the fact that the 4000 square meter orchid hothouse can be enjoyed rain or shine. You can reach the park by telephoning 09-8782191.Guided tours for school children, with explanations in Hebrew, English, Russian and Arabic, can be arranged prior to a visit, and Utopia Park has also become a popular venue for corporate events in Israel.

After paying the admission you’ll be ushered into a darkened  cave to watch an informative animated movie. From there follow the sounds of cascading water through the waterfall entrance of the humid, glass covered arena of orchids, ferns, peacocks, pools and bridges. Take your time to stroll down the paths of this tropical jungle to admire the thousands of orchids on display while stopping to read the educational signs nearby. Utopia Park boasts one of the world’s largest collection of orchids including 50 species and 100 varieties, among them the paphiopedilum, cymbidium and cattleya. As you meander through this “Garden of Eden” listen to the sounds of parrots, the clucking of hens and the chirping of other exotic birds coming from a caged area that you can enter with a tour guide. Though it’s hard to take your eyes off the colorful orchids and other tropical plants, do look above to admire the large ferns, the coconuts hanging from the palm trees and the colorful bananas near the amphitheater. Near the exit, stop at the collection of carnivorous plants, whose rootless early existence in a swampy environment forced them to adapt to a life of fly and insect catching.

It’s now time for some fresh air with a stroll through the Utopia Park outdoor gardens or a rest on their expansive lawns. Your kids will no doubt enjoy the delightful topiary, the butterfly garden, petting area, or just running through the maze hill. As you exit the park, think about a brief stop at the garden center for a souvenir plant or cutting to remind you of your visit to Utopia Park.

Now let’s retrace our way back on Route 57 to Route 4 where you will turn right and travel about 3.7 kilometers . Turn left and follow the sign to  Kibbutz Ma’abarot and the Alexander river. Then follow the road a short distance to the right and park your car near the river.

The Alexander River was at one time considered to be one of this country’s most polluted streams as it collected sewage near it’s source in Nablus and in other areas of the Palestinian Authority before flowing into Israel. However, in 1994 an initiative between local governments in the Palestinian Authority, the KKL/JNF, and Israeli governmental agencies, known as the Alexander River Restoration Project, resulted in the remediation of the pollution and the creation of park like setting along the river bank. This level of collaboration between Israel and it’s Palestinian neighbors may very well serve as a model for future similar cross-border initiatives.

Today, with the additional assistance of the Italian Jewish community, the rehabilitated area is known as “Parco Italia” and affords visitors the opportunity to hike, bicycle and picnic along the river’s edge. Walk along the pedestrian bridge, or on the trail with its limestone pavers and shaded sitting areas, north toward the wooden observation platform to observe the many  large soft shelled turtles and fish in the stream. You may also see some Grey Mullet, which are common to the Mediterranean Sea, after they have breached the sand barriers of the estuary to lay their eggs upstream on the banks Alexander river. If time permits, you may wish to follow the excellent signage and  continue to hike toward the coast along the river edge with its abundance of lush vegetation. On your walk, note the four small dams which were built as ladders to facilitate the travel of fish down stream. In the spring, you’ll have the joy of experiencing blooming anemones, tulips, buttercups and other colorful flowers on a hill near the eucalyptus grove.

By now you have no doubt built up an appetite, so it’s time for lunch! Drive back into the gated entrance of Kibbutz Ma’abarot, follow the road to the left down the hill and look for the wine shop sign. The shop has a large variety of Israeli boutique wines, international selections as well as wonderful Belgian, Czech and German beers which will go well with your lunch.You may be greeted at the door of the Beit HaYain cafe by it’s owners Baruch and Riva Wolf who have created a delectable menu of quality cheeses, seafood and meats. Baruch is a friendly kibbutznik who started his career as a manager at Ma’abarot before opening in the renovated old storage building a rustic gourmet eatery. You can enjoy your meal on the wooden veranda or outside surrounded by gardens, a small vineyard, eucalyptus trees and rural landscape views. On a rainy winter day you may want to try Baruch’s goulash soup, beef bourguignon, with a slice of apple strudel for dessert to boot. The restaurant is open daily and for larger group reservations Baruch can be reached at 09-8972053.

If you would now like to savor a good glass of wine with a view of a Mediterranean sunset, and are ready to travel another 15 minutes north on our Israel tour for a bit of history, then let’s visit Beit Hankin (04-621 4424).This small gem of a restaurant, with it’s terrace overlooking the aqua waters and beach, was built in Bauhaus International style in 1936 by Yehoushua Hankin for his wife Olga. Today, this restaurant is the centerpiece of Hadera’s largest neighborhood known as Givat Olga and is a nice little stop during your tour in Israel.

Yehousha Hankin is best remembered for his tireless efforts in purchasing large tracts of land, on behalf of the World Zionist Organization, the Jewish National Fund and other organizations, in what is today Rehovot, Hadera, Acco, the Jezreel Valley, and Emek Hefer. His knowledge of Turkish law, fluency in Arabic, and intimate knowledge of the customs of the local Arab population, complemented by the strength of his personality, permitted Yehousha to successfully negotiate transactions valued at hundreds of thousands of dollars with absentee Arab land owners in Beirut and Damascus.

In 1888 Yehousha married Olga Belkind, who had arrived in Palestine two years earlier, with a degree in midwifery from the University of St.Petersburg. Olga was twelve years his senior, and used her many years of experience in midwifery to assist Yehousha in developing personal relationships with Arabs living in the vicinity of their home in Jaffa. She soon made a name for herself in her own right as a midwife to the families of local sheiks and other Muslim and Christian notables. Olga and Yehousha were exiled to Turkey during the first world war, and upon their return to Palestine Olga retired from midwifery. She however continued to live in her husband’s shadow for many years thereafter, and was buried in an ornate mausoleum built by Yehousha at Mt. Gilboa in the Jezreel Valley. There on a hill, next to her grave, is a Bauhaus structure identical to the cliff-side restaurant at Givat Olga.

As you enjoy the setting sun from the terrace at Beit Hankin, take a few moments to examine the large collection of photographs inside the restaurant of the pioneering settlers of Hadera, the surrounding Emek Hefer, and the Hankin and Belkind families. At the conclusion of your visit you can easily return to Route 2 for your drive to Tel-Aviv.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources: Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority
Park Utopia
The Jerusalem Post
Women On The Map
Arthur Ruppin

To reach Beit Hankin follow Route 4 into the town of Hadera, and at the circle, follow the sign to Givat Olga. Follow Shim’oni street to the railroad tracks where it becomes Aaron Aaronsohn boulevard. Half way around  the next circle turn right into Hashalom street, and after a few blocks, follow the signs toward Tel-Aviv and proceed over the Route 2 viaduct. Then follow Menachem Begin street to the beach. Park near the very large, unfinished concrete building, and walk through the gate and along the path until you view a small white cliff-side building on the left.

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Our destination today is one of the most unusual natural attraction in Israel, the Sorek cave in the Judean Mountains near Bet Shemesh. We’ll have lunch nearby and then explore the remains of an ancient khan with it’s well-preserved mosaic floors, and hike down the Emperor’s Road. The drive to the Sorek cave will take about an hour from either Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem and is especially scenic as you drive through American Independence Park, which is also known as USA Park.

Exit Route 1 at the Sha’ar Hagai junction and follow Route 38 into the town of Bet Shemesh following the brown directional sign toward the stalactite cave. Drive through this quasi-industrial town on Routes 3855 and 3866 until you enter the American Independence Park. The well-paved drive up U.S. Vice President Hubert Humphrey Parkway will provide you with a stunning view of the Sorek valley, as well as the hills, valleys and the sea far into the distance. Along the way you can easily turn off into some scenic lookouts to enjoy the view below. Near the summit there are several noteworthy sculptures, which we will reflect upon at the conclusion of our visit to the cave. Now turn left to drive down the hill to the parking lot of the Sorek Cave Nature Reserve.

From the parking lot it’s a up to 10 minutes by foot to the visitors center. Though the 150 stairs are well placed, the descent at times is steep, which you should be mindful of as you do need to climb back up to your car! By advance reservation, the physically challenged may be dropped off near the visitors center, but unfortunately, their access within the cave is limited to the observation platform . For further information  please call the following number: 02 991 1117 or 02 992 5756.

The Sorek cave and the surrounding nature reserve, is named after Avshalom Shoham, who as a member of an elite military unit, was critically wounded during the War of Attrition in 1971. When he succommed to his wounds several years later, his family wanted to ensure that his love for Israel would be memorialized, and assisted in making the opening of the cave to the public a reality. Interestingly, his family harkens back to the Bilu settlement movement of the early 20th century, and Avshalom is named for Avshalom Feinberg a member of NILI (see Zichron Yaakov blog).

Start your Israel tour with a visit  to the cave early in the morning or on Fridays when large groups are not permitted. Prior to your guided tour, it would be worthwhile to view the audiovisual presentation, which in detail explains the geological development and discovery of the Sorek cave. Most noteworthy is the fact that this small cave renders a full representation of almost all types of stalagmites and stalactites found in larger caves worldwide. After watching the film you can touch the stalagmites and stalactites that are on display. Especially for children, this can be one of the highlights of their Israel trip.

The Sorek cave was discovered by chance in 1968 while workers were quarrying nearby. However, another decade would pass before it could be officially opened to the public. The cave is located on the side of Mt. Ya’ale, which is part of the Judean mountain range. Today, with thanks to the efforts of the KKL/JNF, the entire area is forested with Mediterranean woodlands and evergreens which are interspersed with walking trails, lookouts and picnic groves.

The Sorek cave has been carved out of Mt. Ya’ale’s dolomite rock, through the seepage of rainwater mixed with carbon dioxide into fissures which expanded in time to create the cavern we admire today. The Sorek is a live cave, in that water continues to infiltrate through these fissures to slowly form the artful display of limestone formations known as stalagmites and stalactites, some of which are three hundred thousand years old. You’ll soon learn to identify this evidence of “life” by observing drops of water hanging at the tip of “macaroni” shaped stalactites. The tour, which is conducted in English and other languages, can last 40 minutes, depending on the number of visitors. The cave is well illuminated with lighting and shadows permitting you to visualize, with the assistance of your friendly  Israel tour guide, formations such as a guardian angel, ice cream cones, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, a baboon, a marrying couple, a wedding cake, and Romeo and Juliet. The latter presents the question if these two growing stalagmites and stalactites will ever join and kiss. The walkway is constructed in such a manner that once inside you are at all times surrounded by this vast array of illuminated formation.

At the conclusion of your tour you can stop at the visitors center and gift shop before returning to your car for the drive back up the mountain. As you reach the main road, turn left into the picnic grove and follow the dirt road to the summit of mount Ya’ale for an impressive view of the valley and plains that are spread out in front of you. There you will also find a number of diagrammed signs in Hebrew explaining significant battles that took place nearby during Israel’s War of Independence. As you descend the mountain, park in the picnic grove and carefully cross the road by foot to admire the memorial sculptures.

The first metal elliptical sculpture depicting the earth is in memory of the Challenger astronauts that perished shortly after liftoff. It’s imposing size and shape near the summit of Mount Ya’ale is a moving tribute to these American explorers. Nearby is the plaque commemorating the Israeli astronaut, Ilan Ramon, who perished with the crew of the Columbia spacecraft.

From the junction, it’s a 4 kilometer drive on Route 3866 to the Bar Giora visitors center (turn left at the sign Wadi Quetlef) where you can enjoy a full meal on the terrace or inside the rustic restaurant while taking in the view of the valley below. KKL/JNF maintains a kiosk at the visitors center with brochures in English and Hebrew describing hiking trails, archaeological sites and streams in the Jerusalem Mountains area. Opposite the restaurant are wall displays of geological formations, vegetation, and wildlife, which serve as excellent learning tools for Hebrew readers. There is a also a large wall map in Hebrew identifying several hiking trails that start at the center. These are considered some of the best hiking attractions in Israel.

Though I recommend the hikes at our next nearby stop, a short hike on the black-dotted trail will afford you views of ancient hillside terracing, the original Jerusalem-Jaffa train line in the valley below, a variety of indigenous trees and bushes and a sumptuous display of flowers in spring time. Alternatively, you may just wish to enjoy the view by strolling down the asphalt promenade, which is easily accessible to the physically challenged. From there, it’s a 7 kilometer drive down Routes 386 in the direction of Zur Hadassah and 375 west to the Hanoth ruins.

As you proceed down Route 375, you will note on the right immediately adjacent to the road in a picnic grove, the remains of an ancient inn or khan, dating to the late Middle Ages. This ruin, known in Arabic as Khirbet el-Khan, contains the nave of an earlier Byzantine church whose beautiful mosaic floor and inscriptions are clearly visible. If you don’t immediately spot them, use your foot to brush away the sand that has been placed there to protect the mosaics. The adjacent wine press also has a mosaic treading floor which is not as ornate. Nearby, a tree-covered mound with buried stones relates this site to Byzantine period pilgrims, who on their way to Jerusalem, would place a stone on the spot they believed was Goliath’s final resting place. This site may be of particular interest to those participating in holyland travel.

The Hanoth ruins are adjacent to an ancient thoroughfare which in part leads up from the nearby Elah Valley where the biblical account of the battle between David and Goliath took place. The khan is the start of your hike on this ancient Emperor’s Road, through a forest of evergreens with an impressive view of the valley below. Alternatively, by driving south on the route 375 for about three kilometers, you will reach a JNF/KKl grove with steps hewn into rock which researchers believe are part of the Roman road connecting Ashkelon and Jerusalem. It is thought that the road was built in honor of Emperor Hadrian’s visit to this Roman province in 130 C.E. Adjacent thereto, you will also find the remains of an ancient olive press

You can now retrace your steps back to your car and follow Route 375 south to Route 38 toward Bet Shemesh and then north to Route 1 for your return to Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources:Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority
JNF/KKL

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