Our “off the beaten track” journey will take us for the next two days to the northern Negev, first with a visit to Kibbutz Yad Mordechai and then to other nearby sites commemorating heroic battles during Israel’s War of Independence.  We’ll then learn about the Bedouins, nomads who had previously roamed the desert but who now more permanently  reside in parts of the Negev, with a visit to the Museum of Bedouin Culture at the Joe Alon Center.  From there you can return to home base in Jerusalem or Tel-Aviv or continue to Beersheva for an overnight stay. The next day we’ll explore a Bedouin weaving center in the town of Lakiya, historic Tel Beersheva and the nearby Nabatean/Byzantine archaeological site of Mamshit. The latter are part of Israel’s national park system, and have also been designated as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

Our drive on Route 4 from Tel-Aviv will take us about 10 kilometers south of Ashkelon to the entrance of Kibbutz Yad Mordechai, near the Eretz crossing with Gaza.  The drive should take about 60 minutes, and if you have never visited the south, you may want to first read my Ashkelon blog. There is much to see at the Kibbutz and you should dedicate at least three hours to the Holocaust Museum, the reconstructed battle site, and the Bee and Honey Museum.

Start your visit to Kibbutz Yad Mordechai with a stop at the water tower damaged during Israel’s War of  Independence and the adjacent imposing metal statue of Mordechai Anilewitz, which portrays this freedom fighter standing defiantly clutching a hand grenade.  The sand dunes on which the first simple wooden structures of the kibbutz were built, were purchased by the KKL/JNF in 1943 and settled by Polish pioneers of the Hashomer Hatza’ir youth movement. The name of the kibbutz and the statue immortalize Mordechai Anilewitz, a noted member of this movement, who as commander of the Warsaw Ghetto uprising, perished in the bunker known as Mila Street 18. Anilewitz symbolized the fighting Jew and served as a model for many of the defenders of the newly established State of Israel.  In his last letter before his death dated April 23, 1943, Anilewiz stated:

“The dream of my life has risen to become fact.  Self defense in the Ghetto will have been a reality. Jewish armed resistance and revenge are facts.  I have been a witnesss to the magnificent heroic fighting of Jewish men in battle.”

The museum which was opened in 1968, is housed in a dramatic award-winning structure whose several levels are devoted to the theme ” From Holocaust to Revival”.  Its entrance introduces you to the shtetel and the Jewish way of life in the first decades of the 20th century.  Not unlike other Holocaust museums, this one traces the rise of Naziism , the establishment of the extermination camps, heroic efforts of the partisans and the Warsaw Ghetto uprising.  However, the spacious interior is efficiently used by the large photographs, posters, religious artifacts and maps, and by the excellent recreation of the darkened narrow ghetto streets, the faithful reproduction of the bunker at Mila 18, and the interiors of homes. Most haunting are the photographs of murdered children whose faces stare back at you while background music plays the Yiddish tune Oy’fn Prpitchuk, most recently featured in the movie, Schindler’s List.

The message of revival begins near the end of the top floor exhibits.  There, photographs depict the illegal immigration into Eretz Yisrael and the establishment of the eleven defensive settlements on Yom Kippur night 1946.  The expeditious establishment of these outposts on land purchased by the KKL/ JNF was meant to create facts on the ground in anticipation of the United Nations resolution dealing with the partition of Palestine.

This action, which was sanctioned by the leadership of the Jewish Agency, was given the Talmudic name  ”the 11 points in the Negev” and is commemorated by old black and white photographs of pioneers erecting wooden structures and barbed wire fences while singing and dancing at the end of the day.  Another exhibit explains the hazards that were awaiting these settlers in laying the water pipelines that linked these 11 outposts and the subsequent siege that these kibbutzim withstood during the War of Independence.

A most impressive display awaits the visitor on the ground floor of the museum.  There, large photographs, sculptures, maps, weaponry, scale models of the battles, Arab newspaper articles and an Egyptian army film movingly depict the battle for Yad Mordechai.  This exhibit serves as an excellent introduction to your visit of the actual battle field, a short drive from the museum.  Before departing, ask the usher at the front desk to ensure that the gate to the site is open for you.  There you can listen to an English language description of the six-day battle, while observing from a platform the placement of the tanks and  metal cut-outs of Egyptian soldiers maneuvering toward the Kibbutz.

The battle for the survival of Yad Mordechai placed its defenders at great odds against the Egyptian onslaught.  While the Egyptians attacked on May 19, 1948 with planes, tanks and mortars, the 130 kibbutzniks fought back with only 55 primitive light weapons.  Kibbutz Yad Mordechai was especially vulnerable as compared to the other nearby kibbutzim in that it is situated on the main north-south road, which permitted the Egyptian forces, in their drive to reach Tel-Aviv, to easily advance and encircle the defenders.  Yet against these staggering odds, the defenders of the kibbutz were able to hold the Egyptians at bay for six days, permitting the nascent Israeli Defense Forces to establish a line of defense which stymied the Egyptian advance to the north.  Still the loss of 24 of its kibbutz members finally persuaded the survivors of Yad Mordechai to retreat to neighboring, more secure kibbutzim.  Kibbutz Yad Mordechai was abandoned, occupied by the Egyptians, and subsequently liberated by the IDF on November 5, 1948. The returning members found their kibbutz in ruins, but quickly set out to rebuild it.

Today, Yad Mordechai is  a thriving kibbutz, whose agriculture and dairy business are firmly anchored by the Holocaust Museum and an apiary.  The apiary, which was founded 70 years ago, is today a unit of the Strauss foods conglomerate. It supplies 50 percent of all honey consumed in Israel and is also known for its olive oil and related gift products.  While the production facility is closed to the public, the kibbutz maintains a honey-bee museum and gift shop. The museum is especially geared to accomadate children with hands-on exhibits, a short movie and pictorials describing the honey making process. Adults and children alike will find the beekeeper’s explanation of honey collection from live hives especially interesting.  By reservation, the museum will be pleased to present the beekeeper’s lecture and movie in English.  Though the kibbutz sites are generally open from 10-4 and Fridays from 10-2, it would be advisable to confirm these times (052-3923104 or 08-672 0559).

It’s no doubt lunch time, and we’ll now make our way to the Nitzanim beach, about a fifteen minute drive to the north. There you can enjoy a  leisurely walk on this pristine beach in the direction of Ashkelon or Ashdod, or enjoy a light fare at the sea-side restaurant. After lunch we’ll make two stops nearby to gain a further understanding of the valiant efforts of the nascent Jewish community to defend this part of the Negev during Israel’s War of Independence.

As you depart Kibbutz Yad Mordechai, turn left on Route 4 and proceed north, beyond route 35, to the Eshkolot junction. Turn left and follow an asphalt road past a military base to the dunes in the foreground. You can drive through the reserve and along the sandy beach before parking your car at the restaurant. After your break, retrace your way toward Route 4, but after the military base turn left at the brown sign with the flame leading you to “Old Nitzanim”. This should not be confused with the signage that will lead you to the “new” Nitzanim Kibbutz on the other side of Route 4 that was established after 1948.

The original settlement of Nitzanim was established by the JNF/KKL in 1943 to facilitate the landing of  ”illegal” Jewish refugees at the nearby beach in response to the British blockade that was based on the White Paper of 1939  limiting the number of Jewish immigrants to Palestine. Along with an adjoining orchard  and vineyard, the JNF/KKL purchased an old Arab estate, known as the Mansion. Today this renovated structure serves as an office and field school for the Society for the Protection of Nature.

Shortly after the Egyptian invasion of the Negev, most women and children were evacuated from Nitzanim. However, 10 women refused to leave the settlement, and instead decided to make a valiant stand against advancing Egyptian forces. However, the 74 men of the Givati brigade and the 56 members of the settlement were no match for the 700 strong Egyptian army that had easily penetrated the sandy defenses of Nitzanim. As casualties mounted and ammunition was soon depleted, survivors took shelter in the Mansion. Seeing no alternative, the Givati commander exited the Mansion with a makeshift white flag of surrender, but was immediatley shot and killed by an Egyptian officer. Miri Ben-Ari, the mother of a small son and operator of the Nitzanim radio, without hesitation drew her own weapon and shot the Egyptian. She in turn was killed by another officer.

Today, Miri Ben-Ari, the other two female defenders of Nitzanim who had been killed, and  the many Israeli female soldiers who had fallen in battle during Israel’s wars, are honored at the Women of Valor Center that has been established at “Old Nitzanim”. An impressive sculpture depicting these heroines has been erected in front of the Mansion.  You may wish to take a few moments to contemplate its moving message before  heading to the cemetery to view the beautifully sculpted rod iron fence marking important events in the history of  this settlement.

As we make our way to the Joe Alon Center and its Museum for Bedouin Culture, we will stop briefly at the battle memorial known as Givah (Hill) 69 and several other nearby sites. As you depart “Old Nitzanim”, turn right  unto Route 4, and then immediately left at the light onto Route 232. At the brown directional sign, follow the road for about 1 kilometer toward a dirt road leading you into an evergreen grove. In front of you three pock-marked brick water towers from the time of the British Mandate dominate the memorial site. The hill was devoid of trees in May 1948, and served as an excellent strategic vantage point for its Israeli defenders. The Egyptians also well  understood that whoever held the promontory could control movement on the important road below. For this reason, on the morning of June 10, 1948, the Egyptians launched a massive attack, lobbing more than 1000 artillery shells at the hill. The small group of Givati Brigade  soldiers was almost defenseless against the assault of armored tanks and artillery, and lost 20 of its fighters before surrendering that afternoon. Hill 69 remained in Egyptian hands until the end of the War of Independence. Though the surrender was initially viewed with some consternation, today this moving memorial gives due recognition to the brave soldiers who defended Givah 69.

Return to Route 232 and travel south a short distance to Route 35. Turn left and proceed several kilometers until you see the Yoav Fortress on the left side of the road. If this former British Mandate era police station (known as the Iraq Suidan fortress) looks familiar to you, the structure is quite identical to the Latrun police station located on the Jerusalem Tel-Aviv highway, and other similar fortresses built by the British in Palestine.

The police station was captured by the Egyptians and after seven attempts, liberated by the Givati Brigade. Today, the mortar riddled fortress serves as a museum to this fighting unit featuring an outdoor collection of tanks, half trucks, mortars and other weaponry, a memorial hall and excellent explanations of the history and desert battle field exploits of the Givati soldiers.  The museum is manned by active soldiers of the Givati Brigade, who will provide you with a personalized tour of the museum in English and other languages. The black and white movie features excellent archival footage, and emotional interviews with former brigade members.

The former police station is today named the Yoav Fortress, commemorating Operation Yoav, during which the Givati Brigade played a crucial role in opening and securing the vital road to the Negev.  IDF forces were fighting not only against Egyptian forces but also the clock, as the United Nations was poised to enforce a cease fire which would have left the Negev in Egyptian hands.  At the direction of Yigal Allon, the Givati Brigade was able to break through the Huleiqat defense system, and after heavy fighting, open the corridor to the Negev. The Egyptians sustained heavy losses and subsequently retreated to the Gaza Strip.

After completing your tour of the Yoav Fortress, exit to the right and drive about 3 kilometers to the entrance of Kibbutz Negba. The kibbutz was founded as a defensive outpost in response to the Arab riots of 1936-1939, but by virtue of its location was one of the first kibbutzim to be attacked by Egyptian planes and tanks in 1948. Its defenders fought valiantly from their bunkers and trenches with only light arms and were able to repulse several Egyptian advances. Forty three fatalities were sustained, and the names of these Givati soldiers and members of the the kibbutz are now permanently enshrined on a plaque in the memorial area.

Park outside the metal entry gate and proceed the short distance by foot into the park. There, behind the plaque, is a most impressive sculpture created  in 1953 by the renowned sculptor Nathan Rappaport. Three large figures have been cast: a kibbutz member, a young fighter and a girl holding a first aid kit. A marker nearby states their purpose most eloquently: “The images represent two generations of defenders of our land. Their hands are interlocked symbolizing their unity, the kibbutz and brotherhood, while they are looking towards a future of growth, prosperity and peace”.

From the Kibbutz return to Route 35 and proceed a short distance east for a stop at the marker with the Egyptian flags. This site memorializes that country’s unknown soldiers who died during Israel’s War of Independence.

Our next stop of the day will be a visit to the Joe Alon Center and its Museum of Bedouin Culture.  Proceed on Route 35 to Route 40 and then turn right.  At the Lehavim junction turn left onto Route 31 toward the Lahav forest in the distance. Turn left through a forest of towering evergreens, following the sign to the Joe Alon Center.

Your drive has taken you through the north-eastern Negev through an area where the flora and fauna of the coastal plain, the lowlands know as the Shephelah, and the desert meet to create a unique environment.  The area is dotted with caves, archaeological sites and Bedouin communities. The Joe Alon Center  was built in the midst of the Lahav forest, which was first planted by the KKL/JNF in 1952 and covers almost 7500 acres.

Today, approximately 160,000 Bedouin live in the Negev, while another 70,000 reside in the Galilee.  About one half of these are descendants of tribal migrations from the Arabian Desert from as early as the seventh century C.E. Though originally pastoral nomads, many of the tribes have settled permanently into well-established towns such as Lakiya, while others reside in communities of corrugated metal homes, or live with their extended families in large tents where they are sustained by their camels, goats and sheep. Many of these roadside communities have been erected without the permission of the Israeli government, and continue to lack basic services such as sewage or electrical systems as well as health care and educational facilities.

Though the essential elements of Bedouin life in terms of family, tribal loyalty and hospitality, are steadfastly maintained, the transition from a traditional semi-nomadic existence to a more modern lifestyle is creating tension in the community as century’s old way of life is disappearing.

In recognition thereof, a concerted effort has been undertaken to preserve the material culture of the Negev and Sinai Bedouin.  Anthropologists, historians and other professionals have successfully documented a soon disappearing lifestyle and have collected at the Joe Alon Museum of Bedouin Culture an array of ethnographic material of significant educational value. You can easily spend an hour strolling among the colorful displays learning about the traditional ways of the Bedouin, the significance of the women’s clothing and jewelry, women’s roles in tending the flock and processing wool, migration routes and the constant search for water, as well as the role of the men in farming, fishing and hunting.  The history of the Bedouin and their traditional customs are artfully explained by large photographs, scale models, and other artifacts supplemented by replicas of Bedouin tents, tombs, artwork, embroidery and handicrafts.  Audiovisual presentations are available in a number of languages and often an authentic Bedouin tent is manned, complete with cooking and weaving demonstrations.

The Joe Alon Center memorializes a man whose connection with the Negev is legendary.  Born Joe Paczek in Kibbutz Bet Alpha, of parents who would later perish in the Holocaust, Joe Alon became one of Israel’s premier fighter pilots.  After receiving his flight training in Czechoslovakia on airplanes that would soon find their way to the Jewish forces in Palestine, he advanced quickly through the ranks of the nascent Israeli Air Force.  Joe became a driving spirit in the establishment of the Hatzerim air force base in the Negev and soon thereafter ascended to the position of its commander.  In 1970, Joe was appointed Air Attache’ at the Israeli Embassy in Washington D.C., but shortly before the end of his assignment  was found murdered in front of his home.  The perpetrators of Joe Alon’s murder have never been found.  But today, Joe Alon’s love of the desert and its people is duly commemorated by the center that bears his name.  Visiting hours at the center are on Saturday through Thursday 9 to 5 (4 p.m. in winter).  On Friday the center closes at 2 p.m.  The center can be contacted at 08-991-03322 or 08-9918597.

It’s been a long day of sightseeing, and you may now wish to return to your home base in Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem, or overnight in Beersheva. The four star Golden Tulip Hotel, which is well situated in the city center, may be a good choice for you. Follow Route 40 or 60 into Beersheva and look for #4 Henrietta Szold St. You can make reservations by calling 08-640-5444.

To further obtain a perspective on the life of the Negev Bedouin a short drive the following morning to the desert weaving center in the town of Lakiya would be of interest. From Beersheva, follow Route 60 to Route 31 and turn left for several kilometers.  Turn left at the sign and after the second traffic circle, park near the green building on the right.  As you enter the colorful showroom/work area, you may be greeted by Hala, the Director of Marketing of the Lakiya weaving initiative.  Hala is a university graduate whose English is impeccable.  When she’s not guiding a tour, she can be found on the phone or at her computer managing the initiative’s work flow or the efforts of her marketing agents.

The Lakiya desert weaving project was begun in 1991 in an effort to provide employment and socialization opportunities to Bedouin women who had been relocated with their families to Negev towns or to those still residing in villages.  The project is operated by “Sidreah,” a non-for-profit organization whose goal is to empower local Bedouin women by channeling traditional skills into profitable cottage industries. Today, Sidreh provides looms to approximately 70 women who work either individually or in small groups in their homes.  These women receive balls of yarn ready for weaving and dying from local shepherdesses who spin fleece into yarn while tending their flocks. By using ground looms identical to those used by Bedouin women for the last 4,000 years, traditional crafts have been revitalized, while providing Bedouin women with the opportunity to earn an income as part of an expanding modern business venture.

Hala is pleased to take her visitors to the rear of the showroom where traditionally garbed Bedouin women demonstrate skeining, the use of the loom, and the dyeing and sun drying processes.  Many of the geometric forms are traditional Bedouin patterns, as are the vivid greens, blues, rust and black colors that make up the rugs, wall hangings, cushions and bags that are for sale in the showroom.   The showroom hours are Sunday through Thursday, 9 -5 and Saturday 10 to 4.  You may wish to schedule your visit by calling 08-6519883 or 050-5210327.

We will now continue our tour of the Negev  with a visit to Tel Beersheva and then the beautifully preserved Nabattean/Byzantine site of Mamshit. Immediately past the community of Omer on Route 60, you will note the  sign to Tel-Sheva. Follow this road past the community to the entrance of the Tel Beersheva National Park.

In 2005 the tel was accorded accreditation by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for its outstanding representation as a city from the time of the Bible. Though the foundation walls of many administrative structures and private dwellings have been excavated and can be explored, I have found the site most notable for the preservation of its unique water system, especially  its immense subterranean water reservoir.

Finding water was foremost on the minds of Tel Beersheva’s first inhabitants as evidenced by the fact that the settlement was established on the northern bank of a stream-bed in a wide arid valley. Such stream-beds served  a dual purpose as a functional thoroughfare through the desert as well as possessing a lower water table enabling  these early settlers to have easy access to water via wells. The national park beautifully preserves one of these early wells which was hewn outside the entrance walls to the city. As such it would have served the needs of not only the city’s early inhabitants, but also  the requirements of the caravans that passed by. Archaeologists from Tel-Aviv University who excavated the site from 1969 to 1976 suspect that this deep well may be a remnant of the Iron Age people that dwelled on the mound at the end of the second millennium B.C.E., an era known as the Israelite period. For this reason, some biblical scholars like to connect this well with the narrative in Genesis which has Abraham presenting to Abimelech seven sheep as proof of the well that he had dug and the oath (shvuah in Hebrew) that they together  had taken to seal a treaty.

The entrance to the city is via the outer gate which is adjacent to the well. As you follow the path to the excavated main gate, note the paving stones covering the route. Underneath lies a drainage channel which was part of the town’s complex water system, which had permitted water not utilized by the inhabitants in their daily needs, to be funneled to the large water reservoir. Further down the path you will encounter the remains of the “Governor’s Palace,” which in its time had splendid ceremonial and residential areas. Nearby, in the residential quarter, archaeologists have retained the 8th century B.C.E. level where the city’s  new fortification system created a parallel double wall surrounding the mount, known as a “casement wall,” which also served as the back wall of the residences.

After a short walk down the trail, visitors can explore  the interesting remains of the storehouses with their wide paths that had permitted pack animals to easily maneuver their loads. Today, you can well imagine supplies being unloaded and placed into the series of store rooms aligning the three long hallways.  Archaeologists suggest that these storerooms are indicative of the town having served as the main administrative center of the northern Negev prior to its destruction in the late 8th century B.C.E. During their field work they were also astounded to discover the dismantled stones of a four-horned alter embedded in the walls of one of the storerooms. This sacrificial alter has been reassembled and is on display at the Israel Museum. A replica can be found near the entrance gate of the national park.

Now retrace your steps to the observation tower from which you can enjoy the desert landscape, the views toward the high-rises of Beersheva, but most interestingly, the layout of the tel immediately below you. From there its a short walk to the water reservoir, which was established within the walls of the city to ensure its residents a continuous supply of water in times of siege.

The 17 meter deep stone-lined shaft leading to the immense water reservoir below ground is a magnificent representation of the ingenuity of Tel Beersheva’s early inhabitants. As you carefully descend the steps, note the thousands of stones that were used to line the face of the shaft. However, only upon entering the 700 cubic meter cistern can you fully appreciate the labor that was involved in  carving the five chambers of the reservoir from it’s chalk rock, hoisting the material  to the surface and  then plastering the walls to prevent water seepage. Near the exit  is the feeder channel that permitted flood water to enter the reservoir, while above ground are the remains of a stone-built channel that funneled this water from the Hebron stream to the feeder channel.

As useful as the water reservoir may have been to the residents of Tel Beersheva in previous battles, the town succumbed to the forces of the Assyrian King Sennacherib at the end of the 8th century B.C.E. The town lay in ruins until the Persian period when a small fortress was constructed on the mound. Though the Greeks and Romans later utilized the site, Tel Beersheva never again regained it’s stature as an important administrative center with an enterprising and imaginative population.

As you exit the tel, retrace your way to Route 60, where you will turn left. Follow the signs 60/40 for a short distance and then turn right into Route 40. Immediately on the right on a hill you will note several concrete geometric formations, the Palmach’s Negev Brigade memorial. The Negev Brigade was formed in April 1948 with two military objectives in mind. The first was to secure the road to the north, toward Tel-Aviv, and the second was to assist in defending the crucial water pipelines in the Negev. Sculptor Danny Caravan has captured the essence of the brigade’s mandate by erecting forms resembling a damaged water tower, a Palmach tent, a look-out post inside a trench, a water supply line, a bunker, and a serpent shaped building representing the retreating Egyptian army. Prose, poetry and excerpts from the Palmach Brigade diary are etched onto the concrete forms, and in the memorial dome the names of  fallen soldiers are inscribed. The view from the hill toward  modern  Beersheva reminds the visitor of the Palmach Brigade’s other success during the War of Independence, capturing the old city of Beersheva.

Our journey through the Northern Negev continues with a visit to another UNESCO World Heritage site, Mamashit National Park, which today beautifully highlights the culture of the Nabateans, a people that built important cities along the 1,400 mile desert trade route in what is now Saudi Arabia, Jordan and the Negev. You may be most familiar with the red sandstone facades at Petra, an outstanding example of Nabatean architecture. Mamshit was built at the end of the first century C.E. to link Petra with the port in Gaza to facilitate the transport of spices, frankincense, myrrh, balsam and other goods from the Orient to Europe. The Nabateans also harvested asphalt from the Dead Sea and sold it to the Egyptians for  their embalming and mummification processes.

The hot arid climate has well preserved the artfully constructed homes of wealthy Nabatean traders and horse breeders. The notable Arabian stallion was bred at Mamshit, and in fact, the stable and a large stone trough have been excavated. The site today retains its wide streets and homes adorned with beautifully chiseled arches, large terraces, pools, baths and frescoes. As was typical of trade route cities, Mamshit too was built  near an oasis which provided sustenance to desert travelers and residents alike. During the Hellenistic period Mamshit  prospered and became known as Memphis. Subsequently under Roman rule of Palestine, Mamshit was incorporated into the empire and became a walled garrison, as evidenced by the Latin inscribed tombstones of soldiers found nearby. In the Byzantine period, when the trade in spice through the southern desert had run its course, the residents used the nearby stream,  dams and cisterns to cultivate agriculture. It was also then that the two churches found within the walls of the city were erected.

Mamshit can be reached by exiting left from  the Negev Brigade Memorial and proceeding on Route 40, in the direction of Dimona. Then turn left into Route 25,  driving past Dimona. Turn right at the directional sign to Mamshit and follow the paved road for about a kilometer to  the entrance of the national park.

As you enter the walled city through its late Roman-era front gate note the wagon wheel groves on the stones below. Your first stop will be the “House of the Affluent” with it’s large courtyard, adjoining rooms and nearby the stairs leading to the tower. Here, you will find the first examples of the artistry of Mamshit’s master stone masons in the form of arches, plinths and capitals. From there it’s a short walk to one of two churches constructed during the Byzantine period when the residents of Mamshit converted to Christianity. The Western or Nilos church, so named in a Greek floor inscription for its benefactor, has in its nave representations of typical Byzantine  mosaic motifs of peacocks, birds and geometric forms. Nearby is a Nabatean house with a stable large enough to have accomodated sixteen horses. The height of its walls, beautifully chiseled stone troughs and arches are a noteworthy example of the wealth of Mamshit’s horse breeders.

At the other end of the city, the Eastern church, “Church of the Martyrs”, was constructed as part of a larger monastery complex and retains its well preserved atrium, narthex and nave.  As with the Nilos church,  here the apse is at the east permitting worshipers to face Jerusalem. In the rooms adjoining the apse, archaeologists discovered cabinets which they believe would have stored the bones of saints. You can now walk along the former market street with with its parallel rooms, to the “Nabato House.” Though this large complex also has a stable,  its mythological Greek frescoes are particularly impressive. One colorful panel represents the gods Cupid and Psyche sitting on a low bench  and kissing. See  if you can also find on some of the capitals  the decorative carvings of a bull’s head and a figure of a man.

As you walk through the city, note the large cisterns within the courtyards, water channels and stone drains coming down from roofs. These, together with the three large dams constructed  along the stream, are representative of the sophisticated water management techniques developed by the Nabateans at Mamshit. Next to the pool, archaeologists discovered a Byzantine bathhouse whose ceramic pipes that carried heated air to the calderium are still clearly visible today. As you prepare to depart Mamshit, you may wish to retrace your way to the path outside of the walls leading to one of the dams that has survived since antiquity with some repairs by the British during their Mandate of Palestine.

As you proceed from the national park to the main road note on the right the Mamshit camel farm which provides a taste of Bedouin hospitality. The experience of eating a hearty meal of  various meats, chicken, vegetables, salads and pita, before retiring to your sleeping bag  in a large Bedouin tent, is tailored to groups of four or more. An early morning camel ride may await your group as well. You can make reservations by calling:08-6552829.

This concludes our two day adventure tour of the northern Negev.  From Mamshit you can make your way to the Dead Sea, and from there to Jerusalem. Alternatively, you can follow route 40 until it intersects with Route 6 which will speedily return you to Tel-Aviv and Jerusalem.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources:

Israel Nature and Parks Authority

Kibbutz Yad Mordechai

Kibbutz Negba

Joe Alon Center

Nitzanim

IDF

The Jerusalem Post

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Today’s off the beaten track adventure will take us slightly inland, away from the coast, into Emek Hefer.This valley of kibbutzim and moshavim, just to the east and north of Netanya, will give us the opportunity to stroll through eucalyptus groves on the banks of the Alexander River while watching large turtles sun themselves on the rocks nearby, and have lunch at a boutique wine shop/ restaurant at an adjacent kibbutz. However, we’ll start our day at Israel’s largest collection of orchids located at Utopia Park and end it over a cup of coffee or glass of wine at a cliffside Bauhaus restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean.

From Tel-Aviv travel north on Route 2 to the Netanya junction, Route 57. Travel east on Route 57 for about 15 kilometers, following the directional sign to Kfar Yona. As you reach the Nitzane Oz junction turn left and follow the signs to Kibbutz Bahan.The trip from Tel-Aviv may take you 45 to 60 minutes. Their parking lot is spacious and Utopia Park is accessible to the physically challenged. During the summer months the park is open from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., but closes at 5 p.m. during the winter. On Fridays the park closes at 3 p.m. Noteworthy is the fact that the 4000 square meter orchid hothouse can be enjoyed rain or shine. You can reach the park by telephoning 09-8782191.

After paying the admission you’ll be ushered into a darkened musty cave to explore the world of exotic mushrooms whose rich shapes and colors may entice you to take a bite. But don’t! From there follow the sounds of cascading water through the waterfall entrance of the humid, glass covered arena of orchids, ferns, peacocks, pools and bridges. Take your time to stroll down the paths of this tropical jungle to admire the thousands of orchids on display. Utopia Park boasts one of the world’s largest collection of orchids including 50 species and 100 varieties, among them the paphiopedilum, cymbidium and cattleya. As you meander through this “Garden of Eden” listen to the sounds of parrots, the clucking of hens and the chirping of other exotic birds. Though it’s hard to take your eyes off the colorful orchids and other tropical plants, do look above to admire the large ferns, the coconuts hanging from the palm trees and the colorful bananas near the amphitheater. Near the exit, stop at the collection of carnivorous plants, whose rootless early existence in a swampy environment forced them to adapt to a life of fly and insect catching.

It’s now time for some fresh air with a stroll through the Utopia Park outdoor gardens or a rest on their expansive lawns. Your kids will no doubt enjoy the delightful topiary, the butterfly garden, petting area, or just running through the maze hill. As you exit the park, think about a brief stop at the garden center for a souvenir plant or cutting to remind you of your visit to Utopia Park.

Now let’s retrace our way back on Route 57 to Route 4 where you will turn right and travel about 3.7 kilometers . Turn left and follow the sign to  Kibbutz Ma’abarot and the Alexander river. Then follow the road a short distance to the right and park your car near the river.

The Alexander River was at one time considered to be one of this country’s most polluted streams as it collected sewage near it’s source in Nablus and in other areas of the Palestinian Authority before flowing into Israel. However, in 1994 an initiative between local governments in the Palestinian Authority, the KKL/JNF, and Israeli governmental agencies, known as the Alexander River Restoration Project, resulted in the remediation of the pollution and the creation of park like setting along the river bank. This level of collaboration between Israel and it’s Palestinian neighbors may very well serve as a model for future similar cross-border initiatives. Today, the rehabilitated area is known as the Alexander River National Park and affords visitors the opportunity to hike, bicycle and picnic along the river’s edge. Walk along the pedestrian bridge or down to the wooden observation platform to observe the many  large soft shelled turtles and fish in the stream. You may also see some Grey Mullet, which are common to the Mediterranean Sea, after they have breached the sand barriers of the estuary to lay their eggs upstream on the banks Alexander river. If time permits, you may wish to hike toward the coast along the river trail with it’s abundance of lush vegetation. On your walk, note the four small dams which were built as ladders to facilitate the travel of fish down stream. In the spring, you’ll have the joy of experiencing blooming anemones, tulips, buttercups and other colorful flowers on a hill near the eucalyptus grove.

By now you have no doubt built up an appetite, so it’s time for lunch! Drive back into the gated entrance of Kibbutz Ma’abarot, follow the road to the left down the hill and look for the wine shop sign. The shop has a large variety of Israeli boutique wines, international selections as well as wonderful Belgian, Czech and German beers which will go well with your lunch.You may be greeted at the door of the Beit HaYain cafe by it’s owners Baruch and Riva Wolf who have created a delectable menu of quality cheeses and meats. Baruch is a friendly kibbutznik who started his career as a manager at Ma’abarot before opening in the renovated old storage building a rustic gourmet eatery. You can enjoy your meal on the wooden veranda or outside surrounded by gardens, a small vineyard, eucalyptus trees and rural landscape views. On a rainy winter day you may want to try Baruch’s goulash soup, beef bourguignon, with a slice of apple strudel for dessert to boot.The restaurant is open daily and for larger group reservations Baruch can be reached at 09-8972053.

If you would now like to savor a good glass of wine with a view of a Mediterranean sunset, and are ready to travel another 15 minutes north for a bit of history, then let’s visit Beit Hankin (04-621 4424).This small gem of a restaurant, with it’s terrace overlooking the aqua waters and beach, was built in Bauhaus International style in 1936 by Yehoushua Hankin for his wife Olga. Today,this restaurant is the centerpiece of Hadera’s largest neighborhood known as Givat Olga.

Yehousha Hankin is best remembered for his tireless efforts in purchasing large tracts of land, on behalf of the World Zionist Organization, the Jewish National Fund and other organizations, in what is today Rehovot, Hadera, Acco, the Jezreel Valley, and Emek Hefer. His knowledge of Turkish law, fluency in Arabic, and intimate knowledge of the customs of the local Arab population, complemented by the strength of his personality, permitted Yehousha to successfully negotiate transactions valued at hundreds of thousands of dollars with absentee Arab land owners in Beirut and Damascus.

In 1888 Yehousha married Olga Belkind, who had arrived in Palestine two years earlier, with a degree in midwifery from the University of St.Petersburg. Olga was twelve years his senior, and used her many years of experience in midwifery to assist Yehousha in developing personal relationships with Arabs living in the vicinity of their home in Jaffa. She soon made a name for herself in her own right as a midwife to the families of local sheiks and other Muslim and Christian notables. Olga and Yehousha were exiled to Turkey during the first world war, and upon their return to Palestine Olga retired from midwifery. She however continued to live in her husband’s shadow for many years thereafter, and was buried in an ornate mausoleum built by Yehousha at Mt. Gilboa in the Jezreel Valley. There on a hill, next to her grave, is a Bauhaus structure identical to the cliff-side restaurant at Givat Olga.

As you enjoy the setting sun from the terrace at Beit Hankin, take a few moments to examine the large collection of photographs inside the restaurant of the pioneering settlers of Hadera, the surrounding Emek Hefer, and the Hankin and Belkind families. At the conclusion of your visit you can easily return to Route 2 for your drive to Tel-Aviv.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources: Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority
Park Utopia
The Jerusalem Post
Women On The Map
Arthur Ruppin

To reach Beit Hankin follow Route 4 into the town of Hadera, and at the circle, follow the sign to Givat Olga. Follow Shim’oni street to the railroad tracks where it becomes Aaron Aaronsohn boulevard. Half way around  the next circle turn right into Hashalom street, and after a few blocks, follow the signs toward Tel-Aviv and proceed over the Route 2 viaduct. Then follow Menachem Begin street to the beach. Park near the very large, unfinished concrete building, and walk through the gate and along the path until you view a small white cliff-side building on the left.

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Our destination today is one of the most unusual natural sites that Israel has to offer, the Sorek cave in the Judean Mountains near Bet Shemesh. We’ll have lunch nearby and then explore the remains of an ancient khan with it’s well-preserved mosaic floors, and hike down the Emperor’s Road. The drive to the Sorek cave will take about an hour from either Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem and is especially scenic as you drive through American Independence Park, which is also known as USA Park.

Exit Route 1 at the Sha’ar Hagai junction and follow Route 38 into the town of Bet Shemesh following the brown directional sign toward the stalactite cave. Drive through this quasi-industrial town on Routes 3855 and 3866 until you enter the American Independence Park. The well-paved drive up U.S. Vice President Hubert Humphrey Parkway will provide you with a stunning view of the Sorek valley, as well as the hills, valleys and the sea far into the distance. Along the way you can easily turn off into some scenic lookouts to enjoy the view below. Near the summit there are several noteworthy sculptures, which we will reflect upon at the conclusion of our visit to the cave. Now turn left to drive down the hill to the parking lot of the Sorek Cave Nature Reserve.

From the parking lot it’s a few minutes by foot to the visitors center. Though the stairs are well placed, the descent at times is steep, which you should be mindful of as you do need to climb back up to your car! By advance reservation, the physically challenged may be dropped off near the visitors center, but unfortunately, their access within the cave is limited to the observation platform (02 991 1117 or 02 992 5756).

The Sorek cave and the surrounding nature reserve, is named after Avshalom Shoham, who as a member of an elite military unit, was critically wounded during the War of Attrition in 1971. When he succommed to his wounds several years later, his family wanted to ensure that his love for Israel would be memorialized, and assisted in making the opening of the cave to the public a reality. Interestingly, his family harkens back to the Bilu settlement movement of the early 20th century, and Avshalom is named for Avshalom Feinberg a member of NILI (see Zichron Yaakov blog).

Try to visit the cave early in the morning or on Fridays when large groups are not permitted. Prior to your guided tour, it would be worthwhile to view the audiovisual presentation, which in detail explains the geological development and discovery of the Sorek cave. Most noteworthy is the fact that this small cave renders a full representation of almost all types of stalagmites and stalactites found in larger caves worldwide. After watching the film you can touch the stalagmites and stalactites that are on display.

The Sorek cave was discovered by chance in 1968 while workers were quarrying nearby. However, another decade would pass before it could be officially opened to the public. The cave is located on the side of Mt. Ya’ale, which is part of the Judean mountain range. Today, with thanks to the efforts of the KKL/JNF, the entire area is forested with Mediterranean woodlands and evergreens which are interspersed with walking trails, lookouts and picnic groves.

The Sorek cave has been carved out of Mt. Ya’ale’s dolomite rock, through the seepage of rainwater mixed with carbon dioxide into fissures which expanded in time to create the cavern we admire today. The Sorek is a live cave, in that water continues to infiltrate through these fissures to slowly form the artful display of limestone formations known as stalagmites and stalactites, some of which are three hundred thousand years old. You’ll soon learn to identify this evidence of “life” by observing drops of water hanging at the tip of “macaroni” shaped stalactites. The tour, which is conducted in English and other languages, can last 40 minutes, depending on the number of visitors. The cave is well illuminated with lighting and shadows permitting you to visualize, with the assistance of your friendly guide, formations such as a guardian angel, ice cream cones, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, a baboon, a marrying couple, a wedding cake, and Romeo and Juliet. The latter presents the question if these two growing stalagmites and stalactites will ever join and kiss. The walkway is constructed in such a manner that once inside you are at all times surrounded by this vast array of illuminated formation.

At the conclusion of your tour you can stop at the visitors center and gift shop before returning to your car for the drive back up the mountain. As you reach the main road, turn left into the picnic grove and follow the dirt road to the summit of mount Ya’ale for an impressive view of the valley and plains that are spread out in front of you. There you will also find a number of diagrammed signs in Hebrew explaining significant battles that took place nearby during Israel’s War of Independence. As you descend the mountain, park in the picnic grove and carefully cross the road by foot to admire the memorial sculptures.

The first metal elliptical sculpture depicting the earth is in memory of the Challenger astronauts that perished shortly after liftoff. It’s imposing size and shape near the summit of Mount Ya’ale is a moving tribute to these American explorers. Nearby is the plaque commemorating the Israeli astronaut, Ilan Ramon, who perished with the crew of the Columbia spacecraft.

From the junction, it’s a 4 kilometer drive on Route 3866 to the Bar Giora visitors center (turn left at the sign Wadi Quetlef) where you can enjoy a full meal on the terrace while taking in the view of the valley below. KKL/JNF maintains a kiosk at the visitors center with brochures in English and Hebrew describing hiking trails, archaeological sites and streams in the Jerusalem Mountains area. Opposite the restaurant are wall displays of geological formations, vegetation, and wildlife, which serve as excellent learning tools for Hebrew readers. There is a also a large wall map in Hebrew identifying several hiking trails that start at the center.

Though I recommend the hikes at our next nearby stop, a short hike on the black-dashed trail toward Sorek and Mt. Ya’ale will afford you views of ancient hillside terracing, the original Jerusalem-Jaffa train line in the valley below, a variety of indigenous trees and bushes and a sumptuous display of flowers in spring time. Alternatively, you may just wish to enjoy the view by strolling down the asphalt promenade, which is easily accessible to the physically challenged. From there, it’s a 7 kilometer drive down Routes 386 in the direction of Zur Hadassah and 375 west to the Hanoth ruins.

As you proceed down Route 375, you will note on the right immediately adjacent to the road in a picnic grove, the remains of an ancient inn or khan, dating to the late Middle Ages. This ruin, known in Arabic as Khirbet el-Khan, contains the nave of an earlier Byzantine church whose beautiful mosaic floor and inscriptions are clearly visible. If you don’t immediately spot them, use your foot to brush away the sand that has been placed there to protect the mosaics. The adjacent wine press also has a mosaic treading floor which is not as ornate. Nearby, a tree-covered mound with buried stones relates this site to Byzantine period pilgrims, who on their way to Jerusalem, would place a stone on the spot they believed was Goliath’s final resting place.

The Hanoth ruins are adjacent to an ancient thoroughfare which in part leads up from the nearby Elah Valley where the biblical account of the battle between David and Goliath took place. The khan is the start of your hike on this ancient Emperor’s Road, through a forest of evergreens with an impressive view of the valley below. Alternatively, by driving south on the route 375 for about three kilometers, you will reach a JNF/KKl grove with steps hewn into rock which researchers believe are part of the Roman road connecting Ashkelon and Jerusalem. It is thought that the road was built in honor of Emperor Hadrian’s visit to this Roman province in 130 C.E. Adjacent thereto, you will also find the remains of an ancient olive press

You can now retrace your steps back to your car and follow Route 375 south to Route 38 toward Bet Shemesh and then north to Route 1 for your return to Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources:Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority
JNF/KKL

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A visit to the charming village of Zichron Yaakov, with its pedestrian-only cobblestone main street lit by old fashioned street lamps, and bounded on both sides with beautifully restored homes, courtyards, galleries, boutiques, and places of historical interest, will provide the visitor with a true understanding of Edmund de Rothschild’s vision and contribution to the Jewish re-settlement of The land of Israel at the end of the 19th century.

Several hours should be dedicated to your visit to Zichron Yaakov, especially if you plan to visit the First Aliyah Museum, tour the Aaransohn house, the Carmel Mizrahi or Tishbi winery and perhaps have lunch on the main street. The village can be easily reached within 45 minutes from Tel-Aviv or within 15 minutes from Haifa. Use Route 4 to enter Zichron Yaakov from the southwest and drive up the hill to Hakovshim St., and then turn left toward the circle, where you will again turn left in the direction of the arched entrance to Hameyasdim Street. You may find parking in front of the cemetery near the Founders’ Monument. The latter is a natural start to your walking tour and provides a brief historical sketch in ceramic relief. Here you can also pick up a map of the village as well as a list of restaurants and B&Bs. Then cross the street and enter the cemetery.

The challenges that had faced Zichron Yaakov’s first settlers will quickly become evident as you walk through the cemetery noting the large number of children’s graves entombed above ground. The village was originally settled in 1882 by Zionist pioneers, predominantly from Romania, many of whose children perished from malaria or the hardships of the winter of 1883. Though some dispirited families chose to leave immediately thereafter, Edmund de Rothschild came to the rescue of the nascent community by providing agricultural employment and subsidized housing for his workers. The relationship between Rothschild’s administrators and these pioneers at times became acrimonious, in that the deeds to their homes had to be registered in the names of the administrators in return for Rothschild’s financial assistance. However, soon thereafter vineyards were planted and by the early 1890s a winery had been established, providing the town with its financial footing.

As you pass under the arch, note at number 18 the modest home of Asher Bonstein, a founding settler/farmer of Zichron Yaakov. If you are fortunate enough to visit the village on a Friday at noon, you may wish to spend a pleasant hour listening to the harp music of Adina Har-Oz at the Hershovitch home located further up Hameyasdim St. at number 30, (04 6392 584). Moshe Hershovitch, one of the original pioneers, was a master carpenter whose wood carvings survive in the synagogue as well as in the home of Aaron Aaronsohn. Note the quaint older building to the right, the agricultural tools and equipment on display, and some of the mulberry bushes originally planted in 1900 to feed a population of silkworms. Silk manufacturing was yet another venture of the industrious Baron de Rothschild, yet short lived.

One of the most notable buildings on Hameyasdim Street, with its stone, castle-like exterior and beautiful garden, is the Aaronsohn family home. As members of one of Zichron’s founding families, the wealthy senior Aaronsohns left Romania with their furniture, crystal and china, which is still on display at the home, as if the family had just sat down to a formal meal. The exploits of two of their children, Aaron Aaronsohn and his sister Sara have become legend in Israel. Aaron was a world-renowned botanist whose research at nearby Atlit led to his discovery of specimens of wild wheat known as “the Mother of wheat”. You may tour the home and the museum which contains an explanation of his scientific research, as well as many excellent documents, photographs and an audiovisual presentation relating to the role that Aaron, Sara and others played in the establishment of the espionage group NILI. Note: It is sometimes difficult to gain entrance expeditiously because of the many school children visiting the place.(06-6390120) 

Members of this group used NILI, an acronym for a biblical verse from the Book of Samuel, as a password. Their purpose was to help facilitate a British victory in World War I in Ottoman controlled Palestine by gathering intelligence on Turkish military installations and troop movements. The group used carrier pigeons to relay information to the British, but to the ring’s great detriment, one such pigeon decided to land at the home of the Turkish governor in Caesarea as it made its way from Atlit to British headquarters in Cairo Egypt. With the exposure of the espionage ring, Turkish authorities surrounded Zichron Yaakov and arrested members of the NILI group, including Sara Aaronsohn. Sara was brutally tortured by the Turks, but refused to divulge any information regarding the group. Asking to be returned to her home one last time to change her clothes, she went to the bathroom and shot herself, rather than giving the Turkish authorities the satisfaction of hanging her. The pistol’s hiding place (known as a “slick”), and the bathroom can be visited on the tour of the home. Aaron, whose accomplishments also included the preparation of a detailed map of Palestine for use at the Versailles Peace Conference, mysteriously perished in an airplane accident over the English Channel in 1919.

The remains of Avshalom Feinberg, another resident of Zichron Yaakov, and member of NILI, were discovered in the Sinai desert after the Six Day War. Beduins had murdered Avshalom during his attempt to reach Aaron Aaronsohn and the British in Cairo. At the time of his death he must have had a date in his pocket as a large date tree sprouted with his remains entwined in it’s roots. Bedouin tradition held that this tree was the resting place of the Jew. After the war, Avshalom Feinberg was returned to Israel and given a formal state funeral.

Across the street from the Aaronsohn home you will note the restaurant/bar of the Tishbi family, with it’s comfortable outdoors seating area. The elegant stone house was originally the home of Shmuel Sternberg who designed the Carmel winery’s first iron gates. It was in the cellar of the Sternberg home that Shmuel’s son David hid from the Turks, Sara Aaronsohns’s final letter and will.

As you meander through the many shops and galleries make a point to stop at the water reservoir, known as Brechat Binyamin. At first glance you may think that the façade is that of an ancient synagogue, but the true purpose at the time of its construction in 1897 was to provide continuous flowing water to a central point in the village. The design of this otherwise utilitarian structure again reflects the careful planning undertaken by Rothschild’s administrators. Your next stop will be the synagogue at the corner of Hameyasdim and Hanadiv streets.

The village was originally known as Zammarin, but at the request of Edmund de Rothschild its name was changed to “ In Memory of Jacob,” in honor of his Father. His Father’s name is further enshrined in the name of the town’s synagogue, Ohel Yaakov, which was built in 1886. The size and architectural quality of the Synagogue, with its elegant crystal chandeliers, reflect Rothschild’s vision for the growth of the community and his commercial enterprise.

Immediately past the synagogue and opposite Rothschild Park one will find the First Aliyah Museum (04-629-4777). The subject matter of this museum is unique, in that it focuses on the Aliyah from 1882 to 1904, rather than on the more frequently discussed subsequent waves of immigration to the Land of Israel. Spread over three floors of a building constructed in 1892, the museum presents a moving multi-media presentation of the travails of one family’s journey from the Diaspora to Palestine. Tracing the movement of a family unit is especially poignant, in that this Aliyah was comprised primarily of entire families escaping the pogroms of the East or those otherwise inspired by the opportunity to work the land. The video is supplemented by large photographs, sculptures depicting the First Aliyah’s pioneers and metal relief maps of sister villages of Zichron Yaakov built with the assistance of Edmund de Rothchild. The museum is also a repository for one of the first movies filmed in Israel depicting life in Tel Aviv in 1913.

As you exit the museum, turn right into Hanadiv Street and proceed down the hill to the visitor’s center of the Carmel Mizrahi winery for a tour. If you previously visited the winery founded by Rothschild in Rishon Le Zion, you may instead wish to tour the smaller winery at the nearby Tishbi Estate (04- 638- 0435.) The Tishbi family was commissioned by Rothschild in 1882 to plant a vineyard near to Zichron Yaakov and they continue to be in business to this day. You may even find proprietors Johnathan and Nili Tishbi busily at work on the property.

Their visitors’ center offers tours of the winery, a Kosher dairy restaurant, a wine and cheese shop as well as the ability to bring your own container from home for a fill up. The winery is unique in that much of its state-of the-art equipment is located outside for easy viewing. An exception of course is the oak barrel wine aging facility and the cognac plant, which utilizes a magnificent antique Remy Martin processor. To reach the estate, follow the signs on Aahron Street, South of the Founders’ Monument, directing you toward Binyamina.

Return to Route 4 for the short drive in the direction of Haifa to the village of Ein Hod. Turn right at the Ein Hod/ Ein Hud sign that directs you up a winding road through the scenic foothills of the Carmel Mountains. The village was founded in 1953 by Marcel Janko at the site of abandoned Arab homes in what was then known as Ein Hud. Because of its proximity to the main road connecting Tel-Aviv and Haifa, the villagers of Ein Hud were evacuated to higher ground during Israel’s War of Independence. Today, most of these former Arab residences have been reconstructed and enlarged, becoming home to a thriving artist colony. Try to avoid the crush of the weekend crowds to more fully enjoy meandering through the alleys, courtyards and in and out of artists’ studios.

At the main square, across from the Dona Rosa Argentine restaurant, you will find a communal gallery displaying a sampling of the works of most of Ein Hod’s artists. Opposite is the Janko Dada Museum (04-984-2350), whose permanent display is dedicated to the seventy years of the artist’s world-renowned creations. Those of you with an adventurous artistic streak can try your hand at creating your own Dada masterpieces in the Dadlab interactive exhibition.

If you care to enjoy more traditional, hands on artistic experiences, Ein Hod offers the visitor a number of interesting venues. Pottery making, including wheel techniques, glazing and kiln firing, can be studied with Naomi Verchovsky (04 984-1107). A demonstration of linoleum cutting, lithography and etching can be observed at the studio of Ora Lahau-Shaatiel (04 -984-2018). The studio of Helena Markson (04-984-1171) can offer you a glimpse into the world of printmaking techniques and etching on copper and zinc.

After attending a workshop or just wandering through Ein Hod’s galleries, a brief stop for some homemade beer at the Art-Bar might be just what you may need on a hot summer day. There you will meet it’s colorful proprietor Danny Shlyfestone, who with his wife Analia, runs the mini brewery/art gallery. Danny serves a variety of stouts and ales, Yemenite style pizza is made on an outdoor Taboon on Fridays, and on Tuesday evenings it’s jazz from 6 p.m. onwards. If you stay long enough you’ll learn everything you ever wanted to know about the intricacies of beer making and the history of beer, with a few of Danny’s jokes thrown in between. Before you leave Ein Hod, ask Danny to point you in the direction of the Nisco Museum of Mechanical Music.

Nisan Cohen will no doubt greet you at the door of his museum which is jam packed with his collection of music boxes, hurdy gurdies, an automatic organ, a reproducing player piano, and much more. Cohen, a native of New York, spent a lifetime as a documentary filmmaker while collecting music boxes and accumulating a vast archive of Yiddish records. One of his most prized possessions is the 1918 rendition of Hatikva on the Edison label, which he will play for you on an original RCA windup gramophone. Also, if you are visiting Ein Hod on a Friday, you can attend the 1 p.m. concert presented at the Nisco Museum using Cohen’s original mechanical instruments (052-4755-313).

At the conclusion of your visit you can return down the hill to Route 4. Turn right, and at the sign, left towards Atlit where you can rejoin Route 2 toward Tel-Aviv.

There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources:

First Aliyah Museum;

The Aaronsohn House;

Municipality of Zichron Yaakov;

Gidonim Society For The Promotion Of Tourism

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At the present time in Israel you can find evidence of ancient techniques of cultivating fruits and vegetables using a system of hillside terraces bordered with stone. Viewing these terraces is easy around the mountains of Jerusalem, where a system of springs, channels and terraces, accessible by hiking trails, has been reconstructed at Sataf as well as at the En Hemed National Park.

Before we start our hike though, it would be fun to stock up on some provisions at the Har HaRuach Goat cheese farm above the village of Abu Ghosh. After a 30 minute drive from either Jerusalem or Tel Aviv, exit Route 1 at Abu Ghosh/En Hemed, drive through the village and then follow Route 425 in the direction of Nataf and Ma’Ale Hachamisha. Before the very top of the hill, turn left toward Nataf and travel about 4 kilometers, entering the Forest in Memory of Polish Jewry on the left. It’s then a few more kilometers on a winding gravel road toward the farmhouse on the ridge in front of you.

The farm is owned by Haim and Dalia Himmelfarb, who with the help of their two girls, sell a variety of natural and organic goat cheeses, yogurts and labane on Fridays, Saturdays and holidays, starting at 10 in the morning. Haim and Dalia are graduates of the Bezalel academy, but yearning for a change in their lives, moved to the hillside village of Nataf to establish their nearby farm in 1996. Today the Himmelfarb’s own 140 goats that graze on 1500 dunams of pastureland. Goat and sheep cheese has been a mainstay of the local population in the hills surrounding Jerusalem since Biblical times, and the quality of the grass is comparable to pastures found in European countries bordering the Mediterranean. With prior reservations, you can attend Dalia’s workshop on the history of cheese making in the Jerusalem hills, as well as lectures on related topics (054-493-34566, 02-534-5660). After purchasing your bread, cheese, yogurt or milk you can wander around the barn, perhaps pet the goats roaming the hillside, and then enjoy a snack under the towering evergreens.

Now retrace your drive through Abu Ghosh toward Route 1, but instead of entering the highway, cross the bridge to the entrance of En Hemed National Park. En Hemed is also known in Latin as Aqua Bella, so named by the Crusaders who built, what some archaeologists surmise, is a fortified farmhouse adjacent to the Kisalon stream. The wooded area and adjacent olive grove beautifully frames the high walls of the surviving structure that was built during the period of King Fulk of Anjou, between 1140 and 1160.

Upon conquering Palestine in 1099, the Crusaders built a series of large castles and fortresses on strategic routes, as well as smaller dwellings that served as rest stops for pilgrims. Also, by adopting the feudal system of land ownership that was so well known to them from Europe, the Crusaders awarded noble families tracts of land that were often used for agricultural purposes. While standing inside the courtyard of this fortified farmhouse you can admire its thick walls, the surviving staircase, the tower with its loopholes and the beautiful windows on the second level.

From that vantage point it would have been possible for the residents of the farmhouse to observe and be observed by Crusaders stationed at the nearby Belmont Castle. As you enter the Eastern hall, note remnants of an olive press and a niche in the wall, which would have supported a wooden beam attached to the press. From the farm house you can continue on a thirty to sixty minute walk along the stream, noting the numerous springs, manmade channels, and unique remnants of the Mediterranean woodland with it’s oak trees and Palestine Buckthorn.

From En Hemed it’s a short drive on Route1 to the Harel/Castel exit and then south on Route 3965 to Sataf. Park your car in the upper parking lot near the information booth where excellent written materials of the five walking trails can be obtained.

Sataf was originally settled during the Chalcolithic Age, and it’s ancient system of terraces dates back 4,500 years. The early inhabitants of the site moved stones to the edge of the natural terraces where they built retaining walls for the imported fertile soil that they used as fill. The two streams emanating from the slopes of Mt. Eitan were used to channel water to plots where crops were grown. Other terraced plots, where olives, figs, almonds, pomegranates and vineyards were harvested, relied on seasonal rains. The remaining stones were used to build watchtowers from which the farmers could keep an eye on their crops.

The JNF/KKL has done an excellent job refurbishing the terraces, the tunnels that were hewn into the water-bearing strata to increase water flow, and channels that carried the water to the storage pools, thereby recreating for the visitor an excellent sense of Biblical farming. In fact, The Parable of the Vineyard in Isaiah Ch. 5 clearly describes this method of farming in the hills surrounding Jerusalem:

My beloved had a vineyard on a very fertile hill. He dug it and cleared it of stones, and planted it with choice vines; he built a watching place in the midst of it, and hewed out a vineyard in it.

Though there are several walking trails of 2 to 3 kilometers in length that can be followed, perhaps the full path marked in green is most interesting. All the trails at times can be steep and are strewn with rocks and stones, making good walking shoes essential. Starting at the upper parking lot, the trail follows an ancient route descending through olive groves and cultivated plots, along Chalcolithic archaeological excavations down to the former Arab village of Sataf.

At the middle of the 19th century the population of Sataf numbered about 450 individuals, and today what little remains of these homes attests to their previous beauty. The village was abandoned in 1948, and  was later used by the Israeli Defense Forces as a training area. Since 1985 the JNF/KKL has been restoring the area to its biblical past. After passing the ruins you can make your way down to Ein Sataf, the main spring in the village, and from the terrace above the pool, descend into the cave from which the spring issues. Then, by stooping, you can traverse a tunnel to its other end. The water, which flows through the tunnel, ends at a pool with a capacity of 180 cubic meters from which farmers could regulate the flow of the water into the man- made plastered irrigation channels.

Further along the path you can view the Eretz Israel Tree Garden behind a wall and an iron gate. There, an effort is underway to traditionally cultivate the country’s original species of fruit trees. As you descend, pass the cultivated plots where organic crops are grown, and make your way toward the Bikura spring. On the way you can observe another traditional means of cultivation when space is limited, the use of hanging stairs from the terrace walls. You can then complete your hike by following a traditional mountain trail past walled vineyards following a path to the upper parking lot. There you will find a most welcome site, a restaurant serving full course meals, from which you can admire the beautiful hills of Jerusalem and the trail from which you have just ascended.

As you depart Sataf, return to the circle and follow the signs for Route 395 leading you to Kibbutz Tzuba. Enter the industrial grounds of the kibbutz and keep to the right, driving up the hill past the kibbutz hotel. The impressive castle on the hill will be to your left and you can park your car under some shady trees before making the rest of climb by foot. It should be noted that this is not a national park and that the area around the ruins are overgrown with weeds, which hide some holes and gullies. It is perhaps best not to include children in this exploration.

It can be easily understood why the Crusaders chose to name their castle Belmont, beautiful mountain. Indeed the views over the hills of Jerusalem through the arched windows and doorways of this ruin are magnificent. The site of this castle, high on a hill overlooking one of the roads leading into Jerusalem from the West, attests to its strategic military importance through the ages. However, the Crusaders held this fortification only until 1191 when Saladin overran the position and destroyed it. Subsequently, the site and the surrounding area became home to several Arab villages. During Israel’s War of Independence the Palmach, Harel regiment, under the leadership of Yitzhak Rabin, successfully routed the invading Egyptians from Belmont. This action ultimately led to the capture of the nearby fortification known as Castel and the reopening of the road to Jerusalem.

As you retrace your steps into the Kibbutz, you may wish to stop at the hotel for a meal, a beverage or just to enjoy the view from its terrace. The hotel may also be able to arrange for a tour of the “Cave of John the Baptist” which was found on its grounds. The cave was originally part of a large water system hewn from rock during the 8th century BCE, and was later used as a reservoir and baptismal site. Archaeologists now assert that in the Fifth or Sixth centuries CE Christian monks incised drawings on the walls of the cave depicting images dealing with the life and death of John the Baptist.

As you exit the industrial area of the Kibbutz turn right into Route 395 toward Eshtaol. You will now drive through some of the most beautiful mountainous countryside that central Israel has to offer. The latter part of this road will take you through a narrow, winding and forested ravine, making you believe that you are elsewhere in the world.  Prior thereto, you can turn at the circle directing you to Kessalon and travel three kilometers to view the Scroll of Fire. This outstanding sculpture is located in the world’s largest memorial  to the Holocaust, the B’nai Brith Martyrs Forest of six million trees. Nathan Rapoport has vividly depicted the plight of the Jews in the Holocaust and their subsequent struggle to establish the State of Israel in his dramatic design of the sculpture.

As you approach the end of your travels on Route 395 near the Eshtaol junction, consider making one last stop to memorialize your agricultural experiences in the hills of Jerusalem with a purchase of an excellent bottle of wine at the Flam winery visitor center and some wonderful spices from the immense collection at the adjacent store. At the junction a right turn will lead you back to the Jerusalem Tel-Aviv highway.

Click to enlarge the map

There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Sources:

KKL/JNF
Kibbutz Tzuba and Tzuba Tourism Board
Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority

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If you have an interest in the mysteries of biblical archaeology, a stop at Tel Gezer to visit the 3500-year-old Canaanite temple of standing stones is a fascinating and moving experience. The size and number of steles, makes viewing them as awesome as a trip to Stonehenge, but in fact, they are right in our own backyard; a mere thirty minutes from Tel Aviv or Jerusalem! From there it’s a short drive to Ramla for a stroll through a shuk with a hummus and falafel stuffed pita in hand. You can end the day viewing a bridge constructed in the Middle Ages which continues to be used daily as an entry to the city of Lod.

The cultic site at Gezer dates to the Middle Bronze Age (2000-1500 B.C.E.), when the well-fortified hill was one of the most important cities in Israel, controlling the junction of the Via Maris and the road to Jerusalem. Its strategic importance through the ages can be easily understood today by viewing from the tel the 180-degree expanse, which includes the Ayalon Valley, The Judean hills and the land to the west toward the sea.

There are some other important sites to visit at the tel, but if your time or interest is limited, you may wish to view only the steles by backtracking from the end of the trail. As you reach the center of the northern part of the tel, you are immediately struck by the splendor of ten monolithic stones standing in a row, soldier-like. Each stele is different from the other in size and shape; the tallest being 3 meters high. Some scholars believe that this temple served as a venue where alliances between tribes or city states may have been forged or renewed. The ten monoliths may represent Gezer and 9 allied cities in its vicinity. The sacred precinct also contains a stone basin, which may have served as a container for blood libations poured during the alliance ceremony.

In fact the bible describes a ritual ceremony of this type having occurred as Moses brought the Ten Commandments down from Mount Sinai. In Exodus 24:4 it is written that

Early in the morning, he set up an alter at the foot of the mountain, with 12 pillars for the 12 tribes of Israel…Moses took one part of the blood and put it into the basins, and the other part of the blood he dashed against the alter.

References to the importance of Gezer during the Middle Bronze period can be found in the El-Amarna letters in which the kings of Gezer established their fealty to the pharaoh. However, the glory of the Canaanite city ended in a fiery battle, most likely during the military campaign of Pharaoh Thutmose 111, in 1468 BCE. The remains of the Canaanite tower and the well-preserved mud brick portions of the Canaanite gate, near the beginning of the trail, are impressive visible remains bearing witness to the early importance of Gezer. Also, to the left of the tower, you will note stairs leading to the ancient water system whose 7 meter deep shaft and 45 degree angled tunnel provided sustenance to the residents of Gezer living within the city walls.

After a short walk down the trail you will encounter a beautifully preserved gate and water channel attributed to the 10th Century BCE. reign of King Solomon. Indeed, 1 Kings 9:16 recounts the destruction of Gezer by the pharaoh, who then gave the site to Solomon as part of his daughter’s dowry. Solomon proceeded to build a royal Israelite city, whose massive fortifications remain clearly visible today.

Also dated to the Solomonic period is the well-known Gezer calendar, a small limestone tablet of agricultural chores, evidencing the earliest use of written Hebrew. Unfortunately, the calendar is not on display in Israel.

As you conclude your visit to Tel Gezer, look west, past the space ship-like Nesher factory, where in the distance you should see the town of Ramla. Its historical connection to Gezer is vital, in that the Gezer springs, have through the ages, filled the ancient underground.

Ramla was founded as an Arab city in 716 CE and served as the capital of “Jund Filastin”, a geographical area of the Syrian province of the Arab empire, until the Crusader conquest in the 11th century. Today thousands of Israeli-Arabs, and Jews, live in Ramla among an architectural mix of medieval mosques, Episcopalian, Franciscan and Greek Orthodox Churches, giving the town an interesting religious and ethnic texture.

It’s a short drive from Gezer west on Route 424, which merges with Route 44, to Ramla for a visit to its shuk, Franciscan Church and the Medieval White Tower. As you enter Ramla from Tel-Hai Street, park your car near the Hospice of St. Nicodemus Clock Tower which served as French staff headquarters during Napoleon’s battle for Palestine in 1799. You can enter this Franciscan Church from Bialik Street daily from 8 to 11 in the morning.

However, you may want to call ahead (08-9252907) to ensure your expeditious entry, as the complex also houses a private school. A highlight of the beautifully adorned chapel is an original painting by Titian depicting Jesus being removed from the cross. Before departing the church, you may wish to ask the priest or nun guiding you to show you the room where it is said that Napoleon slept.

From Bialik St., return to Herzl St., and proceed left to Dani Mas St., across from the Episcopalian Church with its short/stubbed tower. It will then be about a four-block walk toward the tallest building in the distance. This 100 ft. high “White Tower” was built in 1318, during the Mameluk era, over the remains of an earlier tower. It’s a steep climb up the 119 steps, but upon reaching the top you will understand why the tower has served not only as a minaret, but has been of strategic military importance through the ages. Beneath the tower lies a huge water reservoir, while surrounding the exterior of the tower are the remains of the “White Mosque”, which was constructed in the 10th century and clad in white marble. Adjacent to the mosque is a Muslim cemetery with the white painted tomb of the legendary traveler and preacher Nebi-Tzalach.

A short walk from the “White Tower” is another large underground reservoir, the pool of St. Helena. As of this writing, the pool is closed, but previous visitors have attested to their ability to row a small boat under its arched ceilings. The pool was constructed in 798 CE venerating Helena, the mother of Emperor Constantine, who some 400 years earlier had traveled to the Holy Land to oversee the construction of churches.

By now perhaps you have built up an appetite. If time permits to sit down for a meal, you may wish to try the humus at the Khalil Restaurant, 6 Kehilat Detroyt, just two blocks to the right of Bialik Street. If continuing your walk with a pita in your hand suits you better, Zaki’s Falafel stand at 104 Herzl is said to be the best in town.

From there it’s a short walk down Herzl St. to the shuk where you can enjoy its vibrant atmosphere, the bright colors of its varied fruits and vegetables, and fragrant spices. In this immediate area you will also find an imposing minaret, which is part of a well-preserved mosque that was originally constructed in the 12th century as a rectangular Crusader church.

As you walk near the market you will note to the east a neglected area, a remnant of the heavy fighting in Ramla between Jewish and Arab forces in 1948. On Herzl St., to the right of the shuk, a memorial to members of the Israel Defense Forces can be found in a newly developed garden. Also, at the corner of Herzl  and Shlomo Hamelech streets, you will find the Ramla Museum (08 929 2650). In the museum’s three small rooms artifacts, photographs, and jewelry, relevant to Ramla’s major historical periods, are displayed. Most interesting is the hoard of gold coins, whose recent excavation is well documented in English.

At the conclusion of your walking tour of Ramla, proceed by car east on Herzl St., over the railroad tracks. Turn right and then at the traffic light, make a U-Turn following the signs to Route 40, direction Lod. After several miles, and immediately before the Route 1 viaduct, turn left following the sign to Lod-Old City. Proceed to the circle, park your car at the gas station and carefully backtrack by foot to the stream near a grouping of evergreen trees. In front of you lies the oldest stone bridge in Israel still in use today. The bridge was constructed during the rule of the Mameluks in 1273 CE and has well withstood the test of time. Between the beautiful reliefs of the two stone lions an inscription attests to the building of the bridge under the direction of the Sultan Beibars.

The nearby entrance to Route 1 can be used for your return to Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem.

Directions to Gezer: coming from Jerusalem on Route 1, Exit at the Latrun junction and take Route Number 3 south less than a kilometer before turning right on Route 424. Proceed west for several kilometers before turning left to Gezer. From Tel-Aviv, exit Route 1 direction Lod/Ramla and proceed on Route 40 and then for a short distance on Route 44 to 424. Follow the sign to Gezer and immediately before the entrance into the moshav, turn right onto the dirt road which will lead you up to the tel. Note that as of June, 2009 the road has deteriorated dramatically since this post was first written. You may wish to use a 4×4 to reach the tel.

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There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Sources:

Ramle Municipality
Israeli Ministry of Foreign Affairs
Haaretz Magazine, June 1st, 2007
Jewish Virtual Library

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If you want to escape to one of Israel’s best beaches and combine it with excellent cuisine and a bit of Crusader history, then the place to go to is Herzliyah Pituach.

This seaside community, which is also one of Israel’s largest high tech centers, is just a ten minute drive north of Tel-Aviv. To find Herzliya Pituach, exit Route 2 at the Herzliyah Pituach exit and proceed west to the open parking lot at the corner of Wingate and Abba Eban St., or to the Herzliyah mall parking lot. There, a pristine, two kilometer long beach is spread in front of you.

Walking north to explore this popular stretch of the Mediterranean will bring you to the archaeological site of Apollonia National Park. However, some visitors may just wish to relax at the waterfront where an umbrella and some chairs can be rented and a drink can be enjoyed. Even a typical Israeli breakfast can be had at one of the many waterfront restaurants right on the beach.

After several hours of basking in the sun, visitors can shower and use one of the changing rooms at the beach before heading on to explore the Herzliyah Pituach mall. There, you can enjoy a wonderful alfresco lunch or dinner with such choices as sushi, Italian, or Greek cuisines, and always excellent fish, while taking in the views of the sailboats and yachts docked at the harbor.

The afternoon can also be spent renting a boat with a skipper to explore Israel’s coastline. Many charter companies post their names and phone numbers on their boats, but note that unless you can gather a group to share the cost, this could be an expensive proposition. If you are not the seafaring kind, but would rather soak in a bit of history, walk north along the beach for about 30 to 45 minutes or drive to Apollonia, following the brown directional signs on Wingate Street. Driving will of course permit you to venture into the elegant side streets to view the numerous ambassadorial residences in this diplomatic community. Some of these homes are easily identifiable by their national flags or emblems on their gates.

Immediately before arriving at Apollonia note on the left the tall minaret of the Sidna Ali Mosque. The mosque is open daily for a visit to its prayer halls, but requires modest dress. On Fridays, Arab worshippers arrive by charter bus to worship at the shrine, which was built about 500 years ago to venerate the Arab warrior Al-Hasan Ibn Ali. From there it’s a short drive to the main gate of the Apollonia National Park.

Apollonia is located on a kurkar promontory overlooking the Mediterranean. On a clear day you can look south to Jaffa or to the north toward the high rises of Netanya and beyond. Looking down into the shimmering waters of the aqua colored sea one can easily make out the outlines of a former harbor as well as the remains of the early Islamic period wall that had fallen into the sea many years before.

The natural harbor was used at the end of the 6th Century BCE by the Phoenicians, Apollonia’s earliest settlers, who harvested snails to produce a purple dye later used in the making of religious and royal garments. The Phoenicians named the settlement Arsuf, and later the Greeks renamed it after their God Apollo.

Immediately upon entering the national park you can observe a well preserved portion of the crusader moat, and immediately beyond, the remains of a Roman villa, whose inhabitants no doubt enjoyed its unobstructed views of the sea. Time permitting, you may wish to follow the sea path route, rather than the more direct walking path to the crusader fortress.

Walking along the ridge, note the Byzantine water reservoir and stone lined pool, both of which were part of a sophisticated system that supplied water to the inhabitants of the then 70 acre city. These are the only remnants from the heyday of Apollonia of the 5th and 6th Centuries CE. At that time, the city dominated the coastal plain and was known for its glass manufacturing, its port, fishing industry and oil and wine presses.

At the end of the sea path trail enter the imposing crusader fortress, whose walls are surrounded by a 30 meter wide and 14 meter deep moat, the largest in all of Israel. The fortress was constructed in 1241 CE under the leadership of King Baldwin 1, who conquered the area and renamed the city Arsour. Subsequently, in 1265 CE, the Mameluk Sultan Beibars attacked Arsour.

One of the most impressive surviving structures at Apollonia is the two-story inner gate of the fortress, which is reproduced on the seal of the crusader nobleman, Seigneur Belian 1st, whose residence was at Arsour. Then proceed to the observation point of the keep, which was part of a 30 foot high tower and try to imagine the crusaders attempting to defend their fortress against the approaching Mameluk army with its massive siege machines. The 2200 large ballista stones displayed at the site, and the remnants of a fire in the Burnt Room, are a vivid reminder of the ferociousness of the 40 day battle that ultimately destroyed Apollonia.

If visitors are fortunate enough to visit Apollonia during the summer, they can enjoy an evening of live music under the stars in the fortress’ courtyard. The national park should have a concert schedule at the front gate. At the conclusion of the visit, you can return to the beach via a nearby path to enjoy the sunset from a seaside bar.

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There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Sources:

Israel Nature and Natural Parks Protection Authority

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Along the coast of Israel, a mere 15 minutes south of Haifa and 45 minutes north of Tel-Aviv, the caves of Nachal Me’arot, and the tel at Dor beach, provide the visitor with a time capsule of human existence from prehistoric, to ancient and modern times. From Tel-Aviv follow Route 2 and exit at Route 70, toward Zichron Yaakov. At the Route 4 junction turn left and proceed about 13 kilometers to the entrance of the national park.

The rocky cliffs of Mt. Carmel reveal a series of caves whose prehistoric inhabitants can be traced back about 500,000 years. Perhaps the most unique feature of these caves is that Neanderthals lived side by side with a population of modern looking human beings some 100,000 years ago. Their dwellings were in the area of what today is called the Nachal Me’arot Nature Reserve, a national park that includes a wadi with walking trails and a series of caves.

Visitors who are able to climb the steep steps can explore three main caves, the first being the Tabun or Tanur cave. Here, layers of sea sand and microscopic evidence of pollen suggest to researchers that during the Paleolithic age the coast was much closer and was covered with savannah vegetation. The early cultures that used the cave are clearly identified by signage permitting the visitor to understand the sequential evolution of man living for thousand of years at this site.  In fact, the earliest prehistoric inhabitants of the cave were apparently homoerectus and used a hand axe of flint or limestone for skinning and deboning animals such as rhinoceros and hippopotamus. One of the most important finds in the Tabun cave has been the Neanderthal skeletal remains of a female dating back some 120,000 years.

Interestingly, at the nearby Skhul cave, an additional 14 skeletons were excavated, similar to human beings in physical appearance, leading researchers to hypothesize that Homo Sapiens did not evolve from the Neanderthals, but that both lived together contemporaneously in the Mt. Carmel area.

Further down the trail, you will come upon the Nahal, or El –Wad, cave where one of the most important finds has been evidence of the Natufian culture. This 10,000-year-old settlement is thought to have been permanent, with groups of families living in a village type encampment utilizing the cave perhaps for storage and the terrace in front of it for their tents. The most notable feature of this culture would have been the transition from hunter/gatherers to plant growing and animal domestication, and the evolution of crude stone tools to delicate microliths. On the terrace, archaeologists uncovered more than 100 burials with individuals lying in a tightly flexed position, a replica of which is available for viewing. Along side are several round niches carved in the stone, which may have served a cultic purpose.

Visitors wishing to continue their visit at Nachal Me’arot, can follow the footsteps of prehistoric man by choosing one of several walking options, as set forth in the visitors’ guide. The circular blue route through the wadi and up the ridge will take you about two hours. On route you can observe hyraxes sunning themselves, or you can just enjoy the cliff flora, some of which are unique to Nachal Me’arot. A wooded area near the ranger station/gift shop has a picnic area, and occasionally inhabitants from the nearby Druze villages will sell pita, olives and sweets near the parking lot.

As an alternative to a hike through the wadi, you may consider a walk on the nearby immaculate white sand beach at Dor. Follow Route 4 south towards Tel- Aviv, and just before reaching Zichron Yaakov and the Arab village of Fureidis, turn right at the sign leading you to Kibbutz Nachsholim and Dor. Your car can be parked within the gates of the kibbutz hotel, near the excellent museum, which exhibits many of the finds from the tel and its adjacent natural harbor.

Archaeologists from the Hebrew University have excavated Tel Dor since 1980, and its remains on the shores of the Mediterranean attest to the site having been a flourishing port city throughout the millennia. In fact, the earliest remains at the tel date back to the Canaanite period ending about 1200 BCE. Later, the Shkil tribe of sea raiders inhabited Dor, as described in the letters of the Egyptian traveler Wen-Amon.The Phoenicians settled at Dor approximately 1100 BCE, and subsequently it became King Solomon’s main port on the Mediterranean.

Walking among the remains overlooking the sea, it becomes evident that the Greco-Roman civilizations were also dominant at Dor. Archaeologists have excavated Roman temples and mosaic floors, as well as stone-walled houses from the Hellenistic period, when the site was known as Dora. Artifacts of beautiful Roman and Greek bowls, plates, jugs and jewelry are displayed at the nearby museum. From the 4th to the 7th century CE, Dor served as a Bishopric, but the Byzantine church was later abandoned. During the Arab period, the village of Tantura was established. Israeli forces captured this village during the War of Independence in 1948, with some of its residents moving to the nearby village of Fureidis, on Route 4.

After visiting the tel you can get a feel for “living at the sea” at modern Dor by exploring the seaside hotel, Kibbutz Nachsholim or nearby Moshav Dor. However, you will no doubt be drawn to the imposing structure on the grounds of the kibbutz, which today houses the museum. The building was initially constructed in 1891 by Baron Edmund de Rothschild as glass bottle factory for his winery at nearby Zichron Yaakov. Interestingly, the manager of the factory was none other than Meir Dizengoff, who later served as Tel-Aviv’s first mayor. Unfortunately, the local sand was unsuitable for glass production, and the workers suffered from malaria, thus resulting in Rothschild’s venture becoming unprofitable. Before the factory closed its doors in 1895, sand was imported from Europe to make some outstanding colored glassware that is on display in the museum.

The structure stood vacant for the next 80 years, until members of the Kibbutz rehabilitated it, turning it into a repository for the finds from Tel Dor and its harbor. Today, a large assortment of anchors, navigational tools, earthen storage jars, Greek and Roman pottery, jewelry and ancient figurines are beautifully displayed throughout the museum. Most impressive is the military equipment from Napoleon’s retreating army from nearby Acco, which was found in the harbor at Dor.

Two large artillery pieces, one captured by Napoleon from the Turks (look for the Ottoman moon crescent and star), and the other from the Spanish army are on display, together with muskets, swords and ammunition. This ordinance was discarded at Napoleon’s orders in the Tantura harbor on the night of May 21st 1799 to make room for wounded soldiers who were to be transported back by horse and stretcher to the French base in Egypt. You may wish to call the museum (04-6390950) to confirm their visiting hours.

The seaside area around Dor, which today includes the town of Zichron Yaakov, was developed in the early 20th century through the vision and generosity of Baron de Rothschild. Though the winery, and the renovated main street of Zichron require a separate visit, one can also appreciate Rothschild’s impact on the area with a visit to the nearby village of Bat Shlomo for lunch at the Schwartzmans.

Returning to Route 4, turn right toward Zichron Yakov, and then left on Route 70, exiting at old Bat Shlomo to the right. The seven stone houses on the picturesque street were commissioned by Rothschild in 1899 as homes for his farmers and workers at the nearby winery. The fourth house on the right is the home of Ziv Schwartzman, a third generation cheese maker and olive grower. You can enjoy a large variety of cheeses either sitting in the comfortable canopied garden or inside among the family photographs, historical documents, antique furniture, tools and utensils. Check out the 200 year old Samovar and the Primus stove while Ziv weaves his tales of his grandfather’s and father’s life on the moshav. Also, if you look up at the ceiling, note the 100 year old red clay roof tiles imported by Rothschild from Marseilles, which still keep the water out and the warmth in, at the charming and rustic Schwartzman home.

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There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Sources:

Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority
Hamizgaga Museum, Kibbutz Nachsholim
The Tel Dor Archaeological Expedition,University of California, Berkley, Archaeological Research Facility

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The Latrun junction at Route 1, just 30 minutes from Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem, offers the visitor a number of interesting sights to explore. So today, we’ll visit a military museum and war memorial, a monastery and an important archaeological site. It’s also a good day for a picnic, so let’s pack some sandwiches and hit the road. We’ll pick up the refreshments later.

Latrun is located in the Ayalon Valley, which has significant strategic, biblical and historical significance. It is here that the sun and moon stood still while Joshua Ben Nun battled the Amorites, where King David fought the Philistines, and Judah Maccabee defeated the Seleucids. The Ayalon Valley is also where the Roman Empire’s Fifth Legion encamped during its siege of Jerusalem. Later, Arab, Crusader and Mameluke armies conquered the valley, and in 1917 it saw decisive battles between the Australian battalion of the British Army and Ottoman forces. It has been said that whoever controlled Latrun, controlled the road to Jerusalem. For this reason, the Ayalon Valley, and Latrun specifically, became an important battlefront for Israel’s quest for independence and again in 1967 during the Six-Day War.

Our first stop will be the armor war memorial in the old British police fortress, where you will find a large array of tanks, half trucks and other armored vehicles. Many of these are of World War II vintage, others have seen battle during the Suez crisis in 1956, the 1967 and 1973 wars, and most interestingly, some Soviet armor from Arab armies captured by the Israeli armed forces. The site also includes an amphitheater where military ceremonies and memorials are held.

The police fortress was built by the British government in 1940 for purposes of self-defense and because of its strategic location, as a base to operate forces in the region. The British army evacuated the fortress on May 14, 1948 and four days thereafter the Jordanian Legion took control of it, blocking the road to Jerusalem.

Israeli forces attempted to capture the Latrun fortress in five separate unsuccessful attacks in an effort to lift the siege entrapping the 100,000 residents of Jerusalem. These bloody battles cost the lives of 142 Jewish soldiers whose names are engraved on Latrun’s wall of names, along with fallen soldiers from other wars and recent victims of terror. Computers inside the museum provide additional information on the lives of the soldiers, some of whom had arrived just days before on immigrant ships from Europe to fight at Latrun. It was only during the Six Day War that the Israel Defense Forces were able to capture the fortress. Existing bullet holes and bomb craters in its walls are clear evidence of the ferociousness of this battle.

While visiting the memorial you have no doubt admired the beautiful monastery across the road. The Latrun Monastery, also known as the Monastery of the Silent Monks, has gardens and a church that is open to the public (Summer: 8:30-12:00, 15:30 -17:00 and Winter 8:30-11:00, 14:30-16:00). You may want to schedule your visit to the Monastery to coincide with one of the  Saturday concerts, which are held inside the church ( 08-922-0065). If your visit to the Monastery is not on a day of a concert, your visit may probably be a short one, perhaps long enough to purchase in the gift shop a bottle of wine or some olive oil harvested from the grove in the front garden.

The Monks are Trappists, part of the Catholic Church’s Benedictine Order, which was established in Italy in the 6th century. Abbott Paul Saouma is the driving force behind the winery and has been living at Latrun since 1945. Unfortunately, the winery itself, which is a maze of chambers, halls and cloisters, is not open to the public.

The monastery has over 400 dunams of vineyards on its grounds which are accessible by car on a dirt road as you exit to the left from the driveway. Today the winery produces about 300,000 bottles annually including many varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Blanc. Now that your appetite has been wetted its time to stroll through the wine shop to pick out your favorite selection.

Returning to the main road we turn right following the signs to Modi’in. Drive under the viaduct of Route 1 to Canada Park where you can now enjoy your wine and picnic lunch. Canada Park has numerous hiking and walking trails, as well as a very well paved road on the east side which snakes through the mountainous forest planted by KKL/ JNF. During the winter months you can also explore it’s springs and water channels. After your visit, backtrack about half a kilometer to the entrance to Emmaus Nicopolis.

Most drivers proceeding down the Tel -Aviv Jerusalem highway (Route 1) fail to notice the impressive ruins of two basilicas nestled between the evergreen trees. During the Byzantine period, Emmaus Nicopolis was established as an Episcopal See, with two basilicas being  built at the presumed place of Christ’s meeting with his disciples. Subsequent Persian and Arab invasions destroyed the basilicas, but they again were rebuilt by the Crusaders in the 12th century. With the conquest of the Crusaders, the Christian presence at the site disappeared, and it was not until 1878 that the Carmelite Convent of Bethlehem acquired Emmaus Nicopolis. Subsequently, the site became an important place of pilgrimage and in 1993 its care was entrusted to the community of the Beatitudes.

The significance of Emmaus Nicopolis to Christianity lies in the Gospel according to Luke, Ch 24, and verses 13-35.

Two of them went that same day to a village called Emmaus, which was from Jerusalem about 160 stadia. And they talked together of all these things that had happened. And it came to pass that while they communed together and……Jesus himself drew near, and went with them. But their eyes were holden that they should not know him……and it came to pass, as he sat at meat with them, he took bread, and blessed it, and break, and gave to them. And their eyes were opened, and they knew him; and he vanished out of their site.

As you enter the front gate of Emmaus Nicopolis note the long and beautifully preserved basilica. This is a remnant of the Crusader church that was constructed upon the remains of the Byzantine basilica, which itself was apparently built over a Roman house. Below that strata archaeologists believe that they have discovered a layer dating back to the reign of King Herod.

To it’s right is the southern apse with a reliquary niche, while to the left is the baptistery chapel with a well-preserved baptistery font in the shape of a cross. Scattered around the site are remains of mosaics some of which include Greek inscriptions as well as an area of ancient tombs. Ossuaries (limestone bone boxes) found in some of these tombs attest to a Jewish presence at Emmaus during the Herodian period. You can also visit the building on the hill built in the 1930s which houses the finest mosaics from the site.

In antiquity the site was noted as a place of delicious waters, a pleasant oasis. The name EMMAUS derives from the Hebrew word Hammot, meaning hot sources or springs. In the 3rd century the city was given the new name Nicopolis, city of victory, in Greek. Though hot springs are not visible at the site, you will recall, that the adjacent area, which is today Canada Park, has active springs flowing to this day.

Concluding your visit you can easily return to Route 1 for the drive to Jerusalem or Tel-Aviv.

Click to enlarge the map

There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Sources:

The Community of the Beatitudes
Domaine de Latrun
Biblical Archaeological Review, March/April 2008
Latrun Memorial Center and Museum

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The Safari Park, which is part of the Zoological Center of Tel-Aviv Ramat Gan, is a unique African safari adventure in an open plains setting in which a variety of animals can roam freely. From Tel-Aviv follow Yitzhak Sadeh Rd. until it merges with Hashalom, which soon thereafter changes it’s name to Aluf Sadeh. Turn right into Raziel, and after the second circle look for the sign for Safari Park ahead. From Jerusalem, take Route 1 and then Route 4, toward Haifa, exiting at Aluf Sade and follow the sign to National Park and then to Safari Park. Though the trip may take 45 minutes from Jerusalem, the Safari Park is a mere 15 minutes from Tel-Aviv.

As you and your family remain safely inside the vehicle, take a leisurely meandering drive to view roaming lions, hippopotamus submerged in the lake during the hot hours of the day, herds of zebras and gnus. Flocks of pelicans and flamingos can be easily viewed at the lake’s edge, impalas can be observed jumping to and fro while gazelles lounge in the shade. Also, the ostrich, which is the world’s largest living flightless bird, can be spotted throughout the Safari Park.

In the middle of the park, a zoo has been established, which is easily accessed by foot. Alternatively, renting a golf cart and driver for a 30-minute drive to view some of the 1600 animals in the park is a fun way to see the zoo. During the hot summer months, the zoo provides a cool shaded area to view elephants, chimpanzees, giraffes and other animals unique to Africa.

An interesting animal found at the zoo, which roams openly in parts of Israel today is the hyena, a scavenger whose strong neck muscles and high shoulders enable it to drag large carcasses to a safe hiding place. Some researchers theorize that the symbolic placement of stones on a grave in the Jewish tradition may have evolved from the need to prevent the hyena from uncovering bodies buried in the dessert. Also, the Israeli wolf, which can be often found in parts of Israel today, is safely presented for viewing.

Large groups of baboons can be seen playing and grooming each other at the zoo. The ancient Egyptians respected baboons as holy animals and raised them in temples. As with humans and some other animals, the Egyptians also mummified their baboons. The zoo and Safari Park are a unique educational experience permitting the visitor to explore the behavior of animals in their natural environment, while the human species spends a few hours away from the hustle and bustle of the big city. For current hours call 03-631-3531.

As unique as the Safari Park is to the presentation of animals in their natural habitat, so too the Neot Kedumim Biblical Nature Reserve presents the plants of the bible in their natural setting. To reach the reserve from Tel-Aviv, exit Route 1 at Route 443 in the direction of Modi’in. Follow the yellow signs on Route 443 until the entrance to the Maccabee caves, and then backtrack to the entrance. From Jerusalem follow Route 443 directly to the entrance of the landscape reserve.

Neot Kedumim is a private reserve located on the Judean foothills leading to Jerusalem. The reserve is artificially landscaped to resemble the “Land of the Bible” before deforestation. Only by standing among the trees and bushes of the reserve, viewing the barren hills in the distance, can the visitor truly comprehend the effects that countless battles and removal of timber have had on the countryside.

Today, the reserve is dotted with plaques citing biblical verses and their relationship to the trees, plants, bushes and flowers of the bible that have been planted. A number of different trails can be followed, but I have found trail number 1 to be most interesting as it provides the visitor with a truly biblical setting, which includes archaeological excavations of early villages, ancient water cisterns, winepresses, and animal pens.

As you start your walk down the trail, one of the first stops will be a cistern whose 17 steps you can descend to its dark bottom. Perhaps while below ground it’s an appropriate time to think about Joseph who had been placed in a similar well by his brothers. Researchers have discovered 45 such cisterns in Neot Kedumim, leading them to extrapolate that in antiquity the area had supported approximately 500 individuals.

From there it’s a short walk to the archaeological excavations which exposed a 5th century CE olive press and a village whose streets and foundations of homes and shops permit one to imagine Jewish life during the late Second Temple period. Nearby, several large winepresses from the 1st century and 4-5th centuries CE had been found hewn out of bedrock, which when taken together with the numerous olive presses discovered in the region, attest to the fertility of Modi’in in antiquity.

The landscape architects of Neot Kedumim have made an extra effort to link the importance of King Solomon to the history of the Jewish people. For example, the planting of a grove of cedar trees is reminiscent of those brought by Solomon from Lebanon to construct the interior of the First Temple. The plaques at the nearby Pool of Solomon with its date palms, myrtle bushes, reeds and willow poplars, associates each of these to scripture. Indeed, the pool itself has it’s own connection to Solomon to whom is attributed the passage in Ecclesiastics which tells of constructing pools to irrigate a forest of growing trees.

As you conclude your walk down trail number 1 you will find yourself in a forest of Tabor oak trees representing the oaks that once populated much of the Sharon plain. Also, several varieties of wildflowers, with their biblical connection, have been planted to represent the varieties that were indigenous to the coastal area. If time permits, you can continue on one of the other trails or just relax under a palm tree at Solomon’s pool to contemplate the landscape of the bible. For current hours, guided tours and lectures you can reach Neot Kedumim at 08-977-0777.

Click to enlarge the map

There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Sources:

Neot Kedumim;
Zoological Center Tel-Aviv Ramat Gan

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