Sightseeing in Israel » Abu Ghosh Crusader era church

Ancient farming methods in the Jerusalem mountains

Ethan Bensinger — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 19:23:18 +0000

At the present time in Israel you can find evidence of ancient techniques of cultivating fruits and vegetables using a system of hillside terraces bordered with stone. Viewing these terraces is easy around the mountains of Jerusalem, where a system of springs, channels and terraces, accessible by hiking trails, has been reconstructed at Sataf as well as at the En Hemed National Park.

Before we start our hike though, it would be fun to stock up on some provisions at the Har HaRuach Goat cheese farm above the village of Abu Ghosh. After a 30 minute drive from either Jerusalem or Tel Aviv, exit Route 1 at Abu Ghosh/En Hemed, drive through the village and then follow Route 425 in the direction of Nataf and Ma’Ale Hachamisha. Before the very top of the hill, turn left toward Nataf and travel about 4 kilometers, entering the Forest in Memory of Polish Jewry on the left. It’s then a few more kilometers on a winding gravel road toward the farmhouse on the ridge in front of you.

The farm is owned by Haim and Dalia Himmelfarb, who with the help of their two girls, sell a variety of natural and organic goat cheeses, yogurts and labane on Fridays, Saturdays and holidays, starting at 10 in the morning. Haim and Dalia are graduates of the Bezalel academy, but yearning for a change in their lives, moved to the hillside village of Nataf to establish their nearby farm in 1996. Today the Himmelfarb’s own 140 goats that graze on 1500 dunams of pastureland. Goat and sheep cheese has been a mainstay of the local population in the hills surrounding Jerusalem since Biblical times, and the quality of the grass is comparable to pastures found in European countries bordering the Mediterranean. With prior reservations, you can attend Dalia’s workshop on the history of cheese making in the Jerusalem hills, as well as lectures on related topics (054-493-34566, 02-534-5660). After purchasing your bread, cheese, yogurt or milk you can wander around the barn, perhaps pet the goats roaming the hillside, and then enjoy a snack under the towering evergreens.

Now retrace your drive through Abu Ghosh toward Route 1, but instead of entering the highway, cross the bridge to the entrance of En Hemed National Park. En Hemed is also known in Latin as Aqua Bella, so named by the Crusaders who built, what some archaeologists surmise, is a fortified farmhouse adjacent to the Kisalon stream. The wooded area and adjacent olive grove beautifully frames the high walls of the surviving structure that was built during the period of King Fulk of Anjou, between 1140 and 1160.

Upon conquering Palestine in 1099, the Crusaders built a series of large castles and fortresses on strategic routes, as well as smaller dwellings that served as rest stops for pilgrims. Also, by adopting the feudal system of land ownership that was so well known to them from Europe, the Crusaders awarded noble families tracts of land that were often used for agricultural purposes. While standing inside the courtyard of this fortified farmhouse you can admire its thick walls, the surviving staircase, the tower with its loopholes and the beautiful windows on the second level. It is one of the most beautifully preserved artifacts from the Crusadrer period and certainly merits a stop on your Israel tour.

From that vantage point it would have been possible for the residents of the farmhouse to observe and be observed by Crusaders stationed at the nearby Belmont Castle. As you enter the Eastern hall, note remnants of an olive press and a niche in the wall, which would have supported a wooden beam attached to the press. From the farm house you can continue on a thirty to sixty minute walk along the stream, noting the numerous springs, manmade channels, and unique remnants of the Mediterranean woodland with it’s oak trees and Palestine Buckthorn.

From En Hemed it’s a short drive on Route1 to the Harel/Castel exit and then south on Route 3965 to Sataf. Park your car in the upper parking lot near the information booth where excellent written materials of the five walking trails can be obtained. For hikers, this is a must-see stop during their Israel trip.

Sataf was originally settled during the Chalcolithic Age, and it’s ancient system of terraces dates back 4,500 years. The early inhabitants of the site moved stones to the edge of the natural terraces where they built retaining walls for the imported fertile soil that they used as fill. The two streams emanating from the slopes of Mt. Eitan were used to channel water to plots where crops were grown. Other terraced plots, where olives, figs, almonds, pomegranates and vineyards were harvested, relied on seasonal rains. The remaining stones were used to build watchtowers from which the farmers could keep an eye on their crops.

The JNF/KKL has done an excellent job refurbishing the terraces, the tunnels that were hewn into the water-bearing strata to increase water flow, and channels that carried the water to the storage pools, thereby recreating for the visitor an excellent sense of Biblical farming. In fact, The Parable of the Vineyard in Isaiah Ch. 5 clearly describes this method of farming in the hills surrounding Jerusalem:

My beloved had a vineyard on a very fertile hill. He dug it and cleared it of stones, and planted it with choice vines; he built a watching place in the midst of it, and hewed out a vineyard in it.

Though there are several walking trails of 2 to 3 kilometers in length that can be followed, perhaps the full path marked in green is most interesting. All the trails at times can be steep and are strewn with rocks and stones, making good walking shoes essential. Starting at the upper parking lot, the trail follows an ancient route descending through olive groves and cultivated plots, along Chalcolithic archaeological excavations down to the former Arab village of Sataf.

At the middle of the 19th century the population of Sataf numbered about 450 individuals, and today what little remains of these homes attests to their previous beauty. The village was abandoned in 1948, and was later used by the Israeli Defense Forces as a training area. Since 1985 the JNF/KKL has been restoring the area to its biblical past, and should be most interesting to visitors participating in holyland travel. After passing the ruins you can make your way down to Ein Sataf, the main spring in the village, and from the terrace above the pool, descend into the cave from which the spring issues. Then, by stooping, you can traverse a tunnel to its other end. The water, which flows through the tunnel, ends at a pool with a capacity of 180 cubic meters from which farmers could regulate the flow of the water into the man- made plastered irrigation channels.

Further along the path you can view the Eretz Israel Tree Garden behind a wall and an iron gate. There, an effort is underway to traditionally cultivate the country’s original species of fruit trees. As you descend, pass the cultivated plots where organic crops are grown, and make your way toward the Bikura spring. On the way you can observe another traditional means of cultivation when space is limited, the use of hanging stairs from the terrace walls. You can then complete your hike by following a traditional mountain trail past walled vineyards following a path to the upper parking lot. There you will find a most welcome site, a restaurant serving full course meals, from which you can admire the beautiful hills of Jerusalem and the trail from which you have just ascended. Truly one of the most beautiful attractions in Israel!

As you depart Sataf, return to the circle and follow the signs for Route 395 leading you to Kibbutz Tzuba. Enter the industrial grounds of the kibbutz and keep to the right, driving up the hill past the kibbutz hotel. The impressive castle on the hill will be to your left and you can park your car under some shady trees before making the rest of climb by foot. It should be noted that this is not a national park and that the area around the ruins are overgrown with weeds, which hide some holes and gullies. It is perhaps best not to include children in this exploration.

It can be easily understood why the Crusaders chose to name their castle Belmont, beautiful mountain. Indeed the views over the hills of Jerusalem through the arched windows and doorways of this ruin are magnificent. The site of this castle, high on a hill overlooking one of the roads leading into Jerusalem from the West, attests to its strategic military importance through the ages. However, the Crusaders held this fortification only until 1191 when Saladin overran the position and destroyed it. Subsequently, the site and the surrounding area became home to several Arab villages. During Israel’s War of Independence the Palmach, Harel regiment, under the leadership of Yitzhak Rabin, successfully routed the invading Egyptians from Belmont. This action ultimately led to the capture of the nearby fortification known as Castel and the reopening of the road to Jerusalem.

As you retrace your steps into the Kibbutz, you may wish to stop at the hotel for a meal, a beverage or just to enjoy the view from its terrace. The hotel may also be able to arrange for a tour of the “Cave of John the Baptist” which was found on its grounds. The cave was originally part of a large water system hewn from rock during the 8th century BCE, and was later used as a reservoir and baptismal site. Archaeologists now assert that in the Fifth or Sixth centuries CE Christian monks incised drawings on the walls of the cave depicting images dealing with the life and death of John the Baptist.

As you exit the industrial area of the Kibbutz turn right into Route 395 toward Eshtaol. You will now drive through some of the most beautiful mountainous countryside that central Israel has to offer. The latter part of this road will take you through a narrow, winding and forested ravine, making you believe that you are elsewhere in the world. Prior thereto, you can turn at the circle directing you to Kessalon and travel three kilometers to view the Scroll of Fire. This outstanding sculpture is located in the world’s largest memorial to the Holocaust, the B’nai Brith Martyrs Forest of six million trees. Nathan Rapoport has vividly depicted the plight of the Jews in the Holocaust and their subsequent struggle to establish the State of Israel in his dramatic design of the sculpture. Travel to Israel certainly merits a stop at this moving memorial.

As you approach the end of your travels on Route 395 near the Eshtaol junction, consider making one last stop to memorialize your agricultural experiences in the hills of Jerusalem with a purchase of an excellent bottle of wine at the Flam winery visitor center and some wonderful spices from the immense collection at the adjacent store. At the junction, a right turn will lead you back to the Jerusalem Tel-Aviv highway.

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Sources:

KKL/JNF
Kibbutz Tzuba and Tzuba Tourism Board
Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority

A Crusader era church, great Middle Eastern food, and the battle for the road to Jerusalem

Ethan Bensinger — Tue, 18 Dec 2007 19:47:25 +0000

Abu Ghosh is a favorite gathering spot for Israelis in search of traditional Arab/Israeli and Lebanese cuisine, as it is ideally located on Route 1, connecting Jerusalem and Tel- Aviv. After a 30 minute drive from either city, exit Route 1 at the Abu Ghosh/En Hemed sign, and follow the main road into town passing a number of it’s excellent restaurants.

It is not only for its food, but more so for the history of this Arab village, that many Israelis have a soft spot in their hearts. The village of Abu Ghosh was founded about 500 years ago, and today many of the residents stem from some of the original families that settled there. The residents of Abu Ghosh have historically kept very cordial relations with the State of Israel, because during the War Of Independence the villagers helped the nascent Jewish forces keep open the important road between the coast and Jerusalem. Since then, Abu Ghosh has prospered, thanks in part, to the throngs of grateful Israelis that visit the many excellent restaurants in the village, especially on Shabbat.

However, long before Abu Ghosh was renowned for its cuisine, pilgrims and other visitors came to its magnificent Crusader era church. To reach the church, turn left from the main road at the small green and white sign, and follow the road until you see on the right a structure hidden behind a high wall with a blue entry gate. If the gate is closed, ring its bell and one of the monks will come out to open it for you.

Stepping inside, it’s as if you have entered a miniature Garden of Eden, with a lush landscape, manicured lawn, flowers and palm trees. Indeed a highlight of your travel in Israel. A short walk up the path will bring you to the Crusader Church of the Resurrection, and upon entering you will no doubt be overwhelmed by the beautifully restored frescos adorning its walls. Many have a religious motif such as the Resurrection of Christ, the Dormition of Mary, and The Patriarchs: Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob.

The Church is of late Romanesque/early Gothic style, with a triple nave and a crypt with a spring below. After falling out of use, the church served as a stable for many years. In 1899 the French government purchased the building, and since 1956 it has belonged to the Lazarists order. Indeed, on your visit you may see monks either inside the church, lecturing to groups of visitors or tending the garden. In the wall of the church, near the entrance, is an inscription reminding the visitor that prior to its construction in 1142, a Roman fort, established for the units of the 10th Legion, occupied the site a thousand years earlier. Visiting hours at the church are Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 8:30 to 11:00 and 2:30 to 17:30. You may wish to call ahead at 02-534-2798. A visit to the church would be especially meaningful for any visitor participatinbg in holyland travel.

If you are fortunate enough to be visiting Israel during the Succot or Shavuot holidays, you may wish to attend the annual Abu Ghosh music festival at the Crusader Church or at the Notre Dame Arche D’Alliance church on top of the hill just outside the village. The acoustic quality of this church is superb for the liturgical, vocal, and classical music played at the festival, which is one of the best attended attractions in Israel.

The Notre Dame church was erected in 1924 on the foundations of a much larger Byzantine Basilica, whose archaeological remains can be viewed on the grounds among the ancient olive trees and picnic tables. Tradition has it that the Byzantine Basilica was built on the site of ancient Kyriat Yearim. It is there, that according to Samuel 1, chapter 7, verse 1, that the Ark of the Covenant was placed in the house of Abinadab on the hill after the Philistines decided to return it to the Israelites. The ark remained in Kyriat Yearim until King David had it carried solemnly to Jerusalem in about 1000 B.C.E.

Notre Dame can be reached from the village by following Route 425 toward Tel-Aviv. After passing the old British police station take a sharp right up the hill at the circle. If the imposing iron gate is locked, ring the bell and a Benedictine Nun will open it for you and provide a private tour as well.

Of course one can’t depart Abu Ghosh without having a good meal, and there are many excellent restaurants to choose from. Each restaurant has its own story, but the history behind The Abu Ghosh Restaurant, with the blue and white sign on the right side of the main road, is unique. Its owner Jawdat Ibrahim, a native of the village, had moved to the U.S. to make his fortune. Indeed in 1993 he won the $22 million State of Illinois lottery and brought his winnings back to Abu Ghosh, investing them in his restaurant as well as numerous projects to improve the welfare of the villagers.

As previously noted, in 1948 the residents of Abu Ghosh chose not to resist Jewish forces in their attempt to keep open the vital corridor to Jerusalem. However, this was not the case of other Arab villages lining the hills of the narrow serpentine road, the “Bab el Wad”, leading to Jerusalem, whose residents viciously attacked Jewish convoys carrying food, medicine and other provisions to the besieged city. Today, the remains of some of these vehicles, known as “sandwich trucks” whose sides consisted of two pieces of armor encasing a thick piece of wood, can be seen on this road ascending to Jerusalem.

A short distance from Abu Ghosh, the Arab village on the hill known as Castel, was of significant strategic importance to Jewish and Arab forces as it was located on the junction of several routes leading to Jerusalem. The Romans understood the strategic value in controlling Castel and built on its summit a fort, which was subsequently replaced by the Crusader castle Belvoir.

Castel National Park can be reached by exiting the Harel-Castel exit from Route 1. After parking your car in the lot, walk around the lower portion of the hill along the dioramas to better understand the ease in which vehicles on the road below could be attacked. It was for this reason that a few days prior to the initiation of “Operation Nachshon”, the name given to the Haganah plan to open the road to Jerusalem with a force of 1,500 soldiers, that Castel was captured. The Harel Brigade of the Palmach, led by Yitzhak Rabin, initially took the fortress without resistance, but Arab forces regrouped and a fierce battle lasting five rainy days resulted in the village changing hands several times. On the night of April 7, 1948 the Arab commander el-Husseini, was killed in battle. Intense fighting the following day, led to the retreat of the Jewish forces and the death of 44 of their soldiers. However, once word of their commander’s death reached the ranks of the Arab fighters, they became demoralized and on April 10 abandoned the fortress, returning it into the hands of the Palmach.

Today, Castel serves as a national monument attesting to the bravery of the Jewish forces that gave their lives attempting to break the siege of Jerusalem and a stop there should be an integral part of your Israel tour. The names of these soldiers are enshrined at the tower on the summit of the hill, where one can also explore the bunkers and system of trenches that were dug out of rock by hand.

Unfortunately, the capture of Castel provided only a temporary reprieve as the road soon again became impassible. Consequently, an imaginative scheme was developed to circumvent the road attacks by Arab villagers. Under the guidance of Michael Stone, an American Colonel with the nom de guerre of Micky Marcus, and unbeknownst to the Arabs, a 12 kilometer bypass road was virtually carved out by hand in a matter of days through the hills and fields leading toward Jerusalem. Volunteers carrying supplies in backpacks would transverse this “Burma Road” to trucks waiting on the other side of the hills to bring provisions to the city’s besieged residents.

Today one can visit portions of the Burma Road at Mizpe Harel. From Route 1, exit at the sign directing you to Bet Shemesh. Follow Route 38 until it intersects with Route 44. Turn right and follow Route 44 until the entrance to the park, proceeding through an evergreen forest toward a watchtower on a hill. There you will find a large sand relief map, similar to those used by the Palmach, clearly depicting the numerous segments of the Burma Road.

Descend the hill by car, stopping along the way to view the pictures of the volunteers who excavated the hillsides to create the new access road. You can then follow this road for several kilometers until you reach other metal cutouts marking the entry point to another portion of the Burma Road. At that point the road becomes difficult for vehicles other than 4×4s, and it is best to retrace your route back to the entrance of the park. Travel to Israel is relatively easy, so from the park travel west to Route 3 and turn right toward the Jerusalem Tel-Aviv highway.